Bottega Veneta Takes a Chance on a Maximalist Aesthetic for FW20
Will the new Bottega devotees embrace Daniel Lee’s latest collection?
After sweeping four of the major categories at the recent British Fashion Awards, Daniel Lee returned to Milan Fashion Week on Saturday to present the Fall/Winter 2020 collection for Bottega Veneta, marking his third show since becoming Creative Director at the luxury brand.
Up until this runway show, Lee’s revamped “new Bottega” had largely appealed to minimalist dressers, as the brand’s loyalists flocked to purchase It items like the quilted leather pumps and the logo-less clutch bag, The Pouch. Taking its group of devotees by surprise, for FW20, the Italian house experimented with a lineup of looks that were unusually audacious.
Nighttime glamor was balanced with comfort on a loose-fit, chocolate sequined dress with cold-shoulder cutouts, while a black turtleneck knit one-piece — as seen on British top model Fran Summers — turned heads with a daring, backless design. The catwalk’s show-stopper, a floor-sweeping shearling coat, was trimmed with thick, chunky fringes in Hot Cheeto-like orange.
Equally bold were the brand’s new delivery of accessories. The Bottega Veneta Intrecciato was omnipresent in the collection, found on XXL crossbody messenger bags, top handle versions of The Pouch, as well as an origami-shaped clutch. Oversized sunglasses à la “clout goggles” came in shades of neon kiwi and cream beige. Except for a pair of heeled sandals that coiled up around the ankles, models stomped down the runway in winter-ready leather and gum boots.
It remains to be seen if the collection will resonate with customers, but Lee’s latest show was certainly a bold step outside of the designer’s comfort zone. See our runway images in the gallery above.