The Top 8 Shows and Runway Trends at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS22
Standout collections from some of Scandinavia’s hottest brands.
Returning as a part physical, part digital event for the Spring/Summer 2022 season, Copenhagen Fashion Week saw homegrown designers and brands from neighboring Scandinavian countries present some of their strongest collections yet. Refreshed and recharged after an unusual year of stillness, brands delivered designs in color palettes that feel optimistic, and in cuts and silhouettes that are flattering without sacrificing comfort. From cult Danish brands Helmstedt and Saks Potts to emerging knitwear label A. Roege Hove, here, we round up some of our favorite CPHFW shows of the season.
While you are here, take a look at the best street style moments from CPHFW SS22.
A. Roege Hove, the conceptual knitwear brand founded by Amalie Røge Hove, is arguably one of the most exciting names on the CPHFW calendar. The designer, whose résumé includes a stint working at Cecilie Bahnsen, first started her brand with a collection of knit bags in 2019. She has since branched out into ready-to-wear, applying her expert knowledge of knitwear techniques to a line of sculptural clothing that feels modern and artful. The brand’s latest outing, a tightly edited collection comprised of 21 looks, featured near-transparent, light-as-air dresses, sheer leggings and cut-out tops that beautifully frame the body.
Taking inspiration from the work of Finnish modernist architect and designer Alvar Aalto, specifically his organic-shaped outdoor pools, Baum und Pferdgarten’s SS22 collection focuses on the harmony of shapes and lines, and that of aesthetic and function. A sundress is printed with a graphic collage that deconstructs the process of Aalto’s famous chair design, while a simple, workwear-leaning coverall features an exaggerated round collar. Sticking to the theme of swimming pools, the brand also unveiled a range of summery knitwear coming in the form of a bustier top, a midi skirt and hot pants in lilac and bright tangerine.
Emilie Helmstedt cited Danish art and nature as the inspiration for her brand’s latest collection, “AHOY 2022.” As the title suggests, an ocean theme ran through the entire show — the opening look was a sleeveless tiered dress boasting motifs of anchors, sailboats, waves and fish. Silk pajamas and quilted outerwear, both signatures of Helmstedt, are reimagined in prints and patterns of marine life. The fairytale-like show also introduced an expanded swimwear line, featuring sailor-inspired bikinis and one-piece bathing suits made of 100 percent recycled materials.
Norwegian brand Holzweiler debuted its SS22 collection with a short film shot against the backdrop of its picturesque hometown, Oslo. The unisex collection, filled with versatile pieces that can be easily dressed up or down, is injected with a dose of playfulness — something that’s much needed during these (still) uncertain times. A pair of pistachio green trousers is designed with sporty snap buttons, while a season-appropriate jacket arrives in an energizing lime hue. Accessories — from multipurpose bandanas, to tiny sunglasses, to an oversized sun hat — further add to the effortlessly cool feel of the range.
There are a few things you can always expect at a show by Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars‘ ROTATE: an incredible choice of venue, a fun crowd, and the chicest cocktail dresses and party wear. The brand’s SS22 show was no exception. Staged at the Tunnelfabrikken in Nordhavn, where the space was converted into a classic car club and a catwalk, the presentation featured a range of looks that keeps ’90s nostalgia alive. A mint mini dress and matching coat mimic the pattern of garage flooring, while a puff-sleeved dress — a staple in ROTATE’s collections — is fashioned from what looks like black latex. Another standout look, a floral shirt and pants set oozes sexiness with pelvic cut-outs.
Consider this the new Saks Potts. Trading their shimmery pants and vivid-colored coats for more pared-down ensembles, co-founders Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts presented a new vision for their brand with a sleekly designed Fall/Winter 2021 collection. Held at the private home of renowned Danish architect Arne Jacobsen, the show was a lesson in grown-up elegance. A cream-ivory wool coat, styled with a muted tonal scarf, looked impeccably chic — but you’d be mistaken to assume that the collection only features neutral colors. Pops of red and fuchsia appear on a bold, floral print dress, while a sharp orange is chosen for new accessories including an AirPods leather case and a lanyard key holder. At the show, which saw models walking in archival Manolo Blahnik heels, Saks Potts also announced its partnership with the iconic footwear brand: “It will not be a short-term design collaboration, but rather a friendship between our brands.”
Soulland’s SS22 collection, titled “Love and Tragedy,” references the main themes of children’s stories. “The power of books continues to be a big inspiration,” Silas Oda Adler, the brand’s creative director and co-founder shared. “That fairy tales existed before the printing of books is even a possibility. It was the main form of entertainment. As in everything else, it’s truly the most interesting when there is contrast.” The youthful collection is filled with all sorts of juxtapositions: Formal silhouettes collide with athletic wear-inspired details, boxy shapes complement form-fitting designs, a rose print clashes with the otherwise minimalist range. There’s even an element of real versus virtual, as the brand launched an additional, digital-only look as an NFT.
Revealed in an artistically directed film titled How Much Can We Grow, Stine Goya‘s SS22 collection is described as “a love letter to the world’s creative communities.” The brand shared in its show notes, “After a year of earth-shattering disruption, Stine Goya clears a space to honor these communities, their prowess and crafts — from music and film, to poetry and dance.” The resulting range of dresses, pantsuits and librarian-chic sweaters vests is polished, but still very much whimsical and fun to wear. From silk shirts and lace frocks in sorbet hues, to outerwear and accessories boasting hand-painted motifs, Goya once again proved her ability to master color-blocking and pattern-mixing.
- Composite Imagery
- Yuri Hong/Hypebae