The Top 9 Shows and Runway Trends at New York Fashion Week SS22
From Peter Do’s first-ever runway to Proenza Schouler’s vacation-inspired looks.
Partially returning to physical runways, New York Fashion Week kicked off the much-anticipated Spring/Summer 2022 Fashion Month with a triumphant set of shows. Both rising talent and established designers — with the exception of some who opted to present digitally — showcased their new collections around the city last week, with celebrities, influencers and editors in attendance.
As we prepare to shift our attention to London, we’ve rounded up some of the best runway shows at NYFW. From Collina Strada to Proenza Schouler to Eckhaus Latta, designers channeled their post-lockdown optimism with vibrant colors and voluminous silhouettes. Others, like LaQuan Smith whose show was staged on top of the Empire State Building, boldly celebrated NYC and American fashion. Thom Browne returned to the city to unveil a garden-themed show, while Peter Do made his runway debut with the Manhattan skyline serving as the backdrop.
Read on for our favorite SS22 shows at NYFW. While you’re here, peep the best celebrity style from the event.
Looking to his family’s history, Christian Siriano took inspiration from photographs of his grandmother’s vacations in the ’60s and ’70s. The designer translated the vibrant hues found in the images to his collection. Sleek suits were highlighted with oversized lapel and asymmetrical hem, while repeated cut-out details took over a selection of black dresses. Gorgeous tulle and satin fabrics were crafted into colorful gowns in voluminous shapes.
Following her Animorphs-themed collection, Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour presented a range of post-lockdown looks that inspires us to dress up. The creative director said that her designs are for all of the “queens,” adding that her inspiration came from the idea that we should be able to dress however we want to. Led by a community-focused cast, which featured actor Sasha Frolova, Collina Strada’s studio member Sara Hiromi and Taymour’s niece, the collection kicked off NYFW with optimism as models walked and sprinted down the runway laughing and waving at the audience. The energy was reflected in the garments, which were splashed with bright colors of blue, orange and green.
Having presented collections with spectator-less shows during the pandemic, this season, co-founders Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus returned to the runway with excitement. “It’s about feeling more free. Really feeling yourself, coming out of the past year-and-a-half and wanting to feel sexy and confident and free,” Eckhaus shared with Vogue. Matching top-and-bottom sets held together with press-stud seams, as well as sheer shirts and dresses, dominated the collection. Ribbed knits in shades of purple, green and orange served as accents in relaxed silhouettes emphasizing both style and comfort.
LaQuan Smith’s SS22 presentation was, quite literally, peak NYC. The designer brought the fashion crowd to the top of the Empire State Building, showcasing a range of glamorous going-out looks on models accompanied by French poodles. Smith, known for delivering sexy ensembles, worked with draped details on halter tops and asymmetrical dresses. Red taffeta was fashioned into a jacket, a mini skirt and a cocktail dress, while white and tan robes added a comfy feel to the overall collection. The presentation closed with a series of lingerie-inspired looks achieved with the use of lace.
For her SS22 show, Maryam Nassir Zadeh invited guests to her newly reopened store on the Lower East Side. The homecoming show aimed to celebrate the label’s roots as well as the designer’s own community, which was directly reflected in the model lineup featuring Paloma Elsesser and Lili Sumner. The runway was filled with cool girl chic looks including bra tops layered underneath sheer shirts, and denim shorts paired with wedge heels. The same aesthetic was applied to MNZ’s menswear line with suede tops, blazers and polo knits.
One of this NYFW’s most talked about names, Peter Do and his team presented their first-ever runway this season. With East River and the NYC skyline as the show’s backdrop, models Steph Shiu and Maggie Maurer strutted down the catwalk in a range of sleek ensmbles. The label’s signature four-piece suit returned with updates involving pleated skirts, while the clean-cut looks were accessorized with oversized crossbody bags. Flowy silhouettes dominated the range in the form of long shirts and comfy trousers, as flower details took center stage on jackets and coats.
“A girl or a woman, whoever chooses to identify as one, in their individually — defined full feminine glory is the most unnerving for patriarchy,” Prabal Gurung wrote in his SS22 show notes, aiming to redefine gender. “America has always been a woman — but she has not always been treated beautifully. what does it mean to be the most essential person in this country? What is feminine? What is American? And who gets to be it all — or none of it?” the designer added. Challenging gender norms in fashion, a corset top was styled with a men’s suit, while sportswear silhouettes featured couture-like details.
Inspired by their post-lockdown travels, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough returned to the runway with a colorful palette and handmade leis from Maui, Hawaii. The label’s signature suit was reworked with fringed Bermuda shorts and bright hues of orange and red. More splashes of color were spotted on relaxed vacation gowns, while cut-out details lined with striking red material were highlighted on select dresses. “They’re joyful clothes to step out in the world again…They stretch and move, we all want to be comfortable,” the duo spoke of the collection.
Returning to New York for one season only, Thom Browne revealed its SS22 offerings in a dramatic, garden-themed space. A voiceover narrated a story of two bachelors as models circulated the venue in bicycles, wearing horse-shaped headpieces. The show opened with dresses built with gray handmade flowers, followed by dresses adorned with draped trompe-l’œil detailing. Browne’s classic tailoring was shown in the form of perfectly cut dresses, long vests, jackets and skirts.