The Top 8 Shows and Runway Trends at Men's Fashion Week FW22
From Virgil Abloh’s final Louis Vuitton collection to Glenn Martens’ Y/Project runway inspired by Jean Paul Gaultier.
A new year, another Fashion Week — designers returned to Paris and Milan to showcase their menswear collections for the Fall/Winter 2022 season. Brands generated buzz with new themes and trends, while celebrating the industry’s leaders with special collaborations and projects.
Y/Project‘s Glenn Martens reimagined Jean Paul Gaultier‘s iconic trompe l’oeil looks ahead of his couture takeover. Prada enlisted celebrities like Jeff Goldblum and Asa Butterfield for its show to reveal tailored designs. Louis Vuitton remembered the late Virgil Abloh with his final collection for the house, and NIGO made his Kenzo debut with a range filled with color and prints.
Read on for the some of the best runway shows this Milan and Paris Fashion Week Men’s.
After teasing some futuristic footwear designs, Matthew Williams presented his FW22 “FADE” collection in Milan. In addition to the Mono boot, the runway featured shearling on a selection of jackets, some of which are crafted with 3D construction for reversibility. Models appeared in puffer jackets and vests, along with loose-fitted trousers. Williams played around with color with a palette of lilac, pink, red and more, while looks featured a mix of materials like leather, nylo and PVC.
Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Dior presented its menswear collection filled with a gray, camel and blue color scheme with animal and floral prints. “It’s really complicated pattern-cutting but it looks so simple. That’s the beauty of it,” Kim Jones described some of the Bar jackets and coats on the runway. In footwear, Jones revealed a Birkenstock collaboration, which had been teased prior to the show by the house’s footwear designer Thibo Denis.
After being named as the brand’s artistic director, NIGO made his Kenzo debut this FW22 season. The Japanese designer celebrated the heritage of Kenzo Takada while adding his contemporary touch, fusing formal, sports and streetwear into one collection. Standouts include denim jacket and trouser sets, highlighted with graphic prints, floral motifs and more. Kenzo’s branding was seen on varsity jackets and striped knitwear, accompanied by kimono-style outerwear and check prints. Apart from the runway, the in-person event boasted a star-studded guest list, featuring Pharrell Williams, Kanye West and Julia Fox, and Tyler, The Creator.
Jonathan Anderson‘s latest collection for Loewe was a reinterpretation of the tech-driven world. Inspired by the metaverse, VR and AR, the designer added abnormal details to everyday garments. Fiber optic lights created a “wet” look on body-tight tops, while coats featured bathroom eyelets on one side. One wool coat was highlighted with a golden stain on the bottom “as if you sat on a park bench and it was gold,” and tees and shorts came in warped silhouettes. Realistic faces and bodies were printed onto tees and bodysuits, which were styled with balaclavas donning heart-shaped openings. These details continued on accessories and footwear, which included bag-shaped shoes, translucent rubber boots and more.
Louis Vuitton honored the late Virgil Abloh with his final collection for the luxury house. Opening with poetry spoken by Kai-Isaiah Jamal, the show was staged on a pastel blue runway, where models like Naomi Campbell walked to an orchestra version of Tyler, The Creator and Kali Uchis‘ “See You Again.” Looks featured shades of royal purple, rich brown and teal on a range of suits and workwear-inspired jackets, which were presented alongside LV Monogram jeans. Standing out from the collection were outerwear pieces covered with De Chirico’s The Melancholia of Departure artwork.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took the internet by storm with a star-studded lineup for Prada’s FW22 runway. Kyle MacLachlan opened the show, followed by Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Asa Butterfield, Damson Idris, Tom Mercier, Jaden Michael, Louis Partridge, Ashton Sanders and Filippo Scotti, with Jeff Goldblum taking the grand finale. Titled “Body of Work,” the collection was dominated by tailored jackets and coats with broad shoulders. The sharp looks were accompanied by a pop of color on gloves and shirts in silky pastel tones, while mohair trimmings were added to oversized MA1 jackets.
Rick Owens looked to Egypt for his FW22 collection titled “Strobe.” “I just went to Egypt, and they have those shapes, those beautiful shapes, and I thought if I did that as a Dan Flavin helmet, that would be so cool,” he shared in conversation with Vogue, referencing the neon-lit helmets that models wore as they strut down the catwalk. The head accessory illuminated the designer’s signature all-black looks, which featured zip-up hoods and “URINAL”-printed tops. The collection additionally featured outfits in bold orange and pink hues, as well as new iterations of Owens’ Kiss, Beatle Bozo, and Tractor boots.
Ahead of his takeover at Jean Paul Gaultier’s upcoming couture show, Glenn Martens presented a collection filled with trompe l’oeil for Y/Project. Body prints took center stage on tank tops, dresses, denim sets and more. The label’s signature deconstructed details were seen on shearling jackets and denim trousers, in addition to woven knit sweaters. The collection was complete with cocoon-shaped knitwear and baggy pants paired with balaclavas.