The Top 11 Shows and Runway Trends at Paris Fashion Week FW22
Our favorites from Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton, to Chanel and Loewe.
With shows from Chanel and Miu Miu, Paris Fashion Week and Fashion Month have come to a close for Fall/Winter 2022. We’re looking back at the past week to round up some of our favorite collections shown in the French capital this season.
Demna delivered messages on politics, the environment and more through his snowy Balenciaga presentation, while Guram Gvasalia showcased a gender-neutral range for VTMNTS. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière presented androgynous tailoring and Jonathan Anderson looked to surrealism for his Loewe collection. Elsewhere, Miuccia Prada proved that the buzzy micro-mini skirt trend is here to stay while bringing back Miu Miu’s much-loved menswear line for the first time since 2008.
See some of the best shows and trends spotted at PFW down below.
Demna delivered important statements through his latest Balenciaga collection. He began with sending out used iPhone 6s as invites, as a way to remind guests of waste and neglect. Prior to the show, he laid out blue-and-yellow T-shirts on each seat to show support for Ukraine as Russia continues to invade the country. “The war in Ukraine has triggered the pain of a past trauma I have carried in me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my home country and I became a forever refugee,” the designer wrote in the collection’s notes. The runway presentation began with a voice reading a Ukrainian poem about peace, followed by models walking out onto the snowy stage. In true Demna fashion, oversized fits and unconventional silhouettes dominated the collection, including yellow Balenciaga-branded caution tape wrapped all over the body (the viral outfit that Kim Kardashian wore to the venue).
Virginie Viard dedicated her latest Chanel line to the house’s iconic tweed. Presented at the Grand Palais Éphémère, the show featured colorful iterations of the fabric, from pink and mint blue to purple and red. These shades were worn from head to toe, with the colored tweed applied to handbags and tights. A touch of contrast was added with double C-branded rain boots and thigh-highs. Further into the collection, Viard unveiled a lineup of luxe evening gowns in sequins, lace and more.
Matthew M. Williams combined sportswear with craftsmanship in his latest Givenchy collection. Logo graphics resembling metal band merch were splashed across sweatshirts and tank tops, which were layered with lengthy outerwear, cropped tops and more. Looking to the house’s archives, Williams reimagined details from couture collections, adding pearls to jeans and tops as well as oversized necklaces.
Bruno Sialelli channeled contrasting themes for Lanvin’s FW22 collection, balancing between opacity and transparency, and hard and soft. Models walked to an electronic track playing in the background, wearing looks inspired by Hollywood glamor with elegant fabrics and patterns. Silhouettes were kept slim with an emphasis on the shoulders, while repeated prints were applied to coats, shirts and suits.
Jonathan Anderson‘s FW22 collection for Loewe was all about “pushing things toward something that could be irrational.” The designer presented a range of unexpected, whimsical designs including a dress with a car hiding at the hem, a gown with oversized lips at the bust and balloons squeezed onto draped dresses. The surrealist looks were styled with shoes covered in drawstring bags.
Squid Game star and Louis Vuitton ambassador Hoyeon Jung opened the fashion house’s FW22 runway wearing loose-fitted striped trousers with a leather jacket and a printed tie. Nicolas Ghesquière dedicated the collection to today’s youth, adding a nostalgic touch to with androgynous tailoring, oversized outerwear and more. The creative director additionally tapped photographer David Sims, embroidering his images onto jacquard polos.
Miuccia Prada proved that the micro-mini skirt trend isn’t going anywhere. Following up on her now-iconic Spring/Summer 2022 show, the designer revealed more of her popular Miu Miu set, with the brand’s logo peeping above low-rise skirts. This time around, the fashion crowd got excited as the label revealed a number of menswear looks, bringing back its popular line that was discontinued in 2008. Similar to the women’s pieces, male models walked out in micro-mini shorts with double-stacked belt detailing.
Off-White™’s FW22 collection was a tribute to its late founder Virgil Abloh. Titled “Spaceship Earth: an ‘Imaginary Experience,” the expansive show featured a range of ready-to-wear and couture looks worn by some of the biggest models across multiple generations, from Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford (with her daughter Kaia Gerber), to Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner. The range, which was “designed by Virgil and completed by the creative teams and collaborators with whom he worked,” delivered multiple messages including one on Abloh’s health struggle seen through a handbag that read “MORE LIFE” and another filled with red and white pill capsules.
Anthony Vaccarello headed to the Eiffel Tower once again this PFW. The creative director maintained a restricted color palette throughout the show, with hints of green, purple and ivory peeking through the mostly all-black garments. The collection was très chic, paying homage to the art deco style loved by Yves Saint Laurent. Key looks were comprised of faux fur coats, double-breasted peacoats and leather jackets, as well as sleek dresses and pantsuits.
Pierpaolo Piccioli went bold this season, covering the entire runway and looks in a vibrant pink hue. The experimental collection featured a variety of silhouettes with standout details, including wavy necklines, floral motifs, baggy trousers and more. While using one color throughout the entire range, the designer used different textures and fabrics for diversified looks. These outfits were contrasted with all-black pieces.
VTMNTS, the latest project from Vetements, made its runway debut this season. Creative director Guram Gvasalia made a statement on gender equality, with the entire collection designed to be gender-neutral. “Fashion is about identity, it is about expressing who you truly are on the inside,” Gvasalia said in the show’s notes. The runway was filled with androgynous styles, from boxy tailored jackets to ultra-cropped puffer jackets worn atop suits.