The 6 Top Shows and Trends from Oslo Runway 2023
Featuring Pearl Octopuss.y, 2MUCH PRESSURE and Envelope1986.
Oslo Runway is committed to securing its position on the global fashion agenda, with its latest edition proving the country’s creative excellence and commitment to tradition. Designers drew inspiration from handcraft, heritage and Norway’s landscapes, embracing both minimalism and maximalism.
Unlike traditional cycles, this annual fashion occasion prioritizes a deliberate pace and eco-friendly practices. Beyond cultural shifts, the event aims to reshape garment production. As in previous seasons, sustainability took the spotlight as designers consistently repurposed surplus materials.
The launch included the DS Fashion Talent Award and Oslo Runway NEXT, offering a glimpse of the exciting days ahead. The momentum continued with showcases from ONE and OTHER, as well as Pearl Octopuss.y. As the event reached its climax, Atelier Hinode, ILAG and Envelope1976 took center stage, epitomizing Oslo Runway’s diverse creativity.
The range of showcased trends encompasses deconstructed crocheted pieces, masculine-feminine ensembles, an array of colors, monochromatic schemes, sheers, formalwear transformed into casual attire and more.
With Oslo Runway now concluded, Hypebae reflects on our favorite runway displays.
2MUCH PRESSURE, led by designer Kine Ulvestad, will soon need no introduction. The brand weaves together artistic worlds and tactile atmospheres through sculptures, clothing and photography. Ulvestad’s creative journey is a testament to her dedication to crochet craftsmanship. Rejecting societal norms, she embraces the cathartic process of crafting, emphasizing its intricate shapes and vivid colors. Her designs echo the essence of time and mindfulness, with crocheting offering a path to mastery and self-discovery. Resourcefulness is key; Ulvestad repurposes leftover yarn, transforming it into wearable art. Stepping beyond her comfort zone, she ventured into woven paper for her SS24 show, reflecting her commitment to embracing tradition while exploring innovative avenues.
Much like the enduring elegance of Léo Delibes’ 19th-century opera Lakmé, Benedikte Ringberg‘s SS24 collection for Atelier Hinode embodied a timeless and romantic essence. Set against the backdrop of a classic venue in the heart of Oslo, adjacent to the Norwegian theatre, the runway showcased delicate couture ensembles, primarily in black and white. Voluminous ruched fabrics echoed Christian Dior’s fascination with the femininity of blooming flowers, while a subtle check print added a bridge between day-to-night wear. Each piece was thoughtfully designed for versatility, offering options like the “Mini Skirt Top,” “Maxi Skirt Dress” and “Reversible Shirt.” Drawing inspiration from the Japanese word for “Sunrise,” Atelier Hinode injects newfound vitality into life’s pursuits, all while embracing sustainable fashion.
Envelope1976’s SS24 showcase stood as a testament to the label’s effortlessly chic aesthetic, while also provoking a reconsideration of our consumption and production habits. Presented within an underground parking garage, the show deprived guests of enjoying the view of Oslo’s Fjord City, symbolizing the weight of emissions on the planet. This philosophy resonated throughout the entire lineup, with each piece emphasizing reuse, sustainability and the beauty of the unexpected and unpolished. The collection featured red carpet dresses fashioned from repurposed sequins, undyed and recycled cashmere styles, and vegetable-tanned, chrome-free leather pieces. These choices underscored why Celine Aagaard, the brand’s founder, received the Oslo Runway Tribute Award earlier in the week.
Renate Nipe unveiled ILAG’s SS24 collection after five months of conceptualization, in a serene neighborhood 15 minutes from Oslo’s center. Influenced by the brand’s inaugural moodboard and considering societal concerns like war, inflation and climate change, the collection exudes an air of introspection. Amidst the vibrant and seemingly optimistic colors—shades of pink, red and yellow—an undercurrent of anxiety subtly propels the creative energy that defines the collection. As models descended the catwalk via a spiraling steel staircase, prints and colors flourished across a range of pieces, encompassing oversized coats, jackets, relaxed sweaters and double-breasted cropped leather jackets. Texture also played a key role, mingling mohair, satin, cotton and knits, and juxtaposing sheer fabrics with structured forms.
ONE and OTHER’s SS24 collection reflected founder Lene Henriksen’s recent trip to Japan, where she admired the Japanese people’s identity-driven approach to dressing regardless of age or style. Henriksen translated this concept into modern silhouettes and sharp tailoring, striking a balance between elegance and edginess. Leather and oversized fits integrated with crispy poplin cotton, crochet knits, denim and linen brought dimension to the collection. Neutral tones like caramel, camel and brown dominated, occasionally punctuated by poppy red. The show embraced androgyny through both casting and cuts, as seen across cinched blazers paired with pleated menswear-inspired trousers.
Grünerløkka’s “Hos Arne,” an art-filled apartment gallery, hosted Pearl Octopuss.y’s Oslo Runway 2023 show, undoubtedly one of the most highly discussed events. Renowned for its sought-after handcrafted jewelry, the brand recently collaborated with Jason Wu for New York Fashion Week. This season, Pearl Octopuss.y ventured into new creative territories, unveiling signature baroque pearls and intricate twists alongside handmade ready-to-wear pieces. Fringed blazers, silk scarves, tuxedo belts, flowing dresses and elongated leather coats took the spotlight. Cathrine Brøter’s vision aimed to reveal Pearl Octopuss.y’s essence, emphasizing emotions, authenticity and love. The gender-neutral collection, adorned with bejeweled and fringed accents, celebrated unity while maintaining the brand’s distinctive aesthetic.