Chopova Lowena SS24 Was a Love Letter to Angels, Devils and Skater Boys
“Girlhood, a time for tearing up, a lovely mess of ritual and riot.”
There’s an undeniable enchanting mystique to emerging designers based in London and the energy they infuse into London Fashion Week. It’s typically a pulsating, unrefined and ambitious essence–something that truly defines the uniqueness of the British capital as a hub for freedom of expression and youthful creativity.
Even in just its sophomore collection, Chopova Lowena, the brainchild of Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons, has already become a favorite on the schedule. Their blend of aesthetics screams “Youthquake,” with elements that include gothic underpinnings, a romantic twist, references to streetwear and a folklore that harks back to their roots.
Celebrating Helston’s Flora Day Festival, Chopova Lowena painted a vivid picture of the Cornish seaside, where the label’s folklore and rhythm explored new avenues. The designers found their distinctive voice long ago and it’s now celebrated by all. Their collection ranged from an exploration of a traditional medieval story of angels and devils, peace and war, sea and shore, mermaids and maidens, to the modern myth of falling “for a skater boy.”
WHERE: The English-Bulgarian label chose the concrete skatepark under the Westway in West London, named “BAYSIXTY6.” The passing trains added an intriguing echo to the space.
WHO: Maisie Williams stole the spotlight in the front row, donning a complete Chopova Lowena ensemble and was followed by a row of London’s coolest influencers and representatives from top fashion magazines. The beloved British designer Sinéad O’Dwyer
closed the show in an all-white ensemble that combined punk aesthetics with lace.
SEE: With hair styled by Kiyoko Odo and makeup by Ana Takahashi, it was nearly impossible to divert one’s gaze from each and every look. Ethereal frizzy hair strands woven into braids, rosy cheeks, mismatched eyeshadows in eclectic hues and sharp silver-toned hair clips gave the models a childlike charm.
The collection featured layered graphic tees, baggy board shorts and plaid pajama pants, reminiscent of youthful crushes. Low-slung bubble skirts, rakish skirt suits and fleece zip-ups adorned with hand-crocheted frills were among the lineup. UGG was a collaborator for this season.
TOUCH: The foundation of the label lies in recycling folkloric fabrics, repurposing deadstock materials and employing traditional craft techniques. Lace, wool, carabiners, mossy knits, ribbons, leathers and a mix of multi-purpose charms stood out.
SOUND: It wouldn’t be a Chopova Lowena presentation without an eclectic mix of banging, loud techno songs.
TASTE: For the first time, Chopova Lowena introduced handbags and footwear, items that are sure to make it onto everyone’s wishlists for the next Spring/Summer season. The fusion of romantic and punk styles is bound to dominate trends, combining soft aesthetics with robust materials and sharp details. Hairclips are undeniably having their moment too, with more being considered merrier and a fearless approach to mixing colors and forms.
Incase you missed it, Natasha Zinko invites you to take a walk on the wild side for SS24.