Mia Khalifa, MAINS and Mowalola: Your Definitive Recap of LFW SS24
Featuring controversial showcases, runway debuts and the ultimate food x fashion crossovers.
Another season of London Fashion Week has come and gone and it’s safe to say that the Spring/Summer 2024 iteration was one of the city’s most eventful for quite some time. From Skepta‘s welcome return to the runway with MAINS to Mia Khalifa‘s fashion week debut with KNWLS, the schedule was littered with highly-anticipated presentations from established names like JW Anderson, Burberry and Ahluwalia alongside first-time runway shows from rising stars like Tolu Coker, Sinead Gorey and T LABEL.
Elsewhere, the schedule played host to numerous after-parties and events, from Skepta’s star-studded celebration with Spotify to Mia Khalifa’s joint venture with KNWLS. Similarly, a whole host of celebs stepped out to attend this season’s festivities, including Chloe Cherry, Little Simz, Naomi Campbell and more.
Read on for Hypebae’s recap of London Fashion Week SS24, and while you’re here, check out our roundup of emerging designers to keep on your radar.
Skepta’s MAINS Debut Was a Tennis-Inspired Hit
Skepta debuted his brand MAINS to the LFW runway after four years on pause. The show was attended by a collection of London’s top talent including Little Simz, Naomi Campbell and Stormzy. At the showcase, the Boy Better Know rapper turned creative director, launched a trio of collaborations with Beats, PUMA and Timberland. Celebrating his friends and family at the core of the concept, Skepta’s brother JME walked the show and his daughter River joined him for his finale walk. In terms of the collection itself, MAINS offered a selection of tracksuits, tailored bomber jackets and denim overalls fit for the court and the club in unison.
Mowalola’s Showcase Sparked Controversy
Mowalola‘s Spring/Summer 2024 showcase titled “Crash” was inspired by David Cronenberg’s 1995 erotic thriller film by the same name and featured boundary pushing uniforms including dirtied denim, anime graphics and the return of knee-high belts. Walked by Irina Shayk and sets of models in conjoined-twins shirts, the collection didn’t go without controversy. A mini skirt, that has since been removed from Vogue runway images, featured the Saudi Arabian flag and Arabic script translating to “There is no god but God, Muhammad is the prophet of God.” Ogunlesi has since apologized stating “I’ll ensure this design is removed from the collection. I deeply regret any hurt or offense my oversight may have caused. Thank you for holding me accountable, and I appreciate your understanding as I learn from this experience.” The showcase sparked additional commentary in regards to the attendance of Ogunlesi’s friend and ex-colleague, Ye along with his wife Bianca Censori.
Mia Khalifa Made Her Runway Debut for KNWLS
Model and former adult film star Mia Khalifa made her runway debut at KNWLS’ Spring/Summer 2024 showcase during London Fashion Week. Dubbed “Petrol,” the high-octane showcase was characterized by a “need for speed,” according to the collection notes, and “fuelled by a primal urge to skirt life’s edge.” Alongside Khalifa, model Lily McMenamy (aka daughter of Kristen McMenamy) made an appearance at the end of the show. Showcasing a range of signature KNWLS silhouettes and new season designs, SS24 followed the brand’s recent Jean Paul Gaultier collaboration and acted as the perfect follow-up.
Food Met Fashion Courtesy of Burberry, Jil Sander and GANT
The ever-blossoming relationship between food and fashion continued to shine at LFW this season, with GANT joining forces with Dom’s Subs, Burberry teaming up with British institution Norman’s Cafe and Jil Sander opening a magazine stall complete with branded coffee. Burberry’s partnership saw the British heritage brand taking over the classic cafe for a week, serving up a dedicated Burberry-themed menu, alongside a pop-up food truck which appeared in various London locations during fashion week. Similarly, GANT’s team-up offered showgoers free sandwiches for breakfast and lunch during September 17-18.
Ukrainian Fashion Week Came to London Once Again
Ukrainian fashion brands KSENIASCHNAIDER, ELENAREVA and NADYA DZYAK presented their SS24 collections at London Fashion Week, under the Ukrainian Fashion Week umbrella which kickstarted last season due to the Russian war. KSENIASCHNAIDER made a welcome return to the runway, presenting a selection of upcycled designs, signature denim looks and another iteration of its adidas Originals collaboration, while ELENAREVA and NADYA DZYAK presented collections in London for the first time. ELENAREVA’s showcase took inspiration from the concept of female power through body-skimming silhouettes, fluid maxi-length gowns and pastel color palettes. Similarly, NADYA DZYAK’s floaty designs channelled a respect for artistic heritage, drawing influence from the works of native artist Polina Raiko.
Chopova Lowena and Sinead O’Dwyer Said Teamwork Makes the Dream Work
It’s rare for fashion designers to share a front row with media personalities and the press, let alone walk the runway themselves. Yet that’s exactly what happened at Chopova Lowena’s SS24 showcase. Embracing intimate, family-oriented casting, the show featured photographer Ottilie Landmark and fellow designer Sinéad O’Dwyer, closing the catwalk in a stunning all-white lace-style blouse paired with the brand’s iconic carabiner mini skirt. This emotionally charged, diverse casting set a high standard for authentic model representation on runways, a philosophy also embraced by O’Dwyer herself. The day after Chopova Lowena’s show, O’Dwyer held an assembly-like Q&A session to present her SS24 collection at the Royal College of Art, with Laura Chopova and Emma Lowena in the audience, creating the ultimate full circle moment.
Yuhan Wang Liberated a 19th-Century Heroine From the Male Gaze
London-based Chinese designer Yuhan Wang reimagined the character of Tess Durbeyfield from Thomas Hardy’s ‘Tess of the d’Urbervilles’ in her SS24 collection. Wang depicted a modern Tess breaking free from male control, embracing her sexuality and subsequently shaping her own destiny. Standout pieces included cottagecore gowns with lace and ‘broderie anglaise,’ paired with bouncy raffia hat minidresses and Regency straw bonnets. The strawberry theme, present on satin dresses, undergarments, skirts, 3D-printed necklaces and the concluding two-piece outfit, was directly inspired by a key scene in Roman Polanski’s 1979 film adaptation, in which Tess entered a semi-trance-like state when men fed her a strawberry.
David Koma Dabbled With Florals
David Koma‘s SS24 presentation rose to the occasion in a spectacular display of elevated eveningwear and sensual silhouettes. Paying tribute to Queen Elizabeth II, David Koma incorporated England’s national flower into a variety of motifs which were embroidered, sculpted and printed onto a variety of the collection’s garments. The London-based designer strayed away from the hot red colorway he presented last season and instead opted for neon green, digital lavender and jet black hues. Stand out pieces from the showcase include sheer mid-calf dresses, silky leather jackets and, of course, his signature holographic, green boots.
- Sofia Delacruz, Cait Monahan