Office Core? Après-Ski? Cowboys? You Can Have It All With Jean Paul Gaultier FW26
Duran Lantink delivered a defiant second collection for the house rooted in archive hacking and character building.
Duran Lantink‘s sophmore collection for Jean Paul Gaultier felt like a gathering of characters from totally different worlds but in a way that made perfect sense. For Fall/Winter 2026/27, Lantink leaned into the house’s long tradition of contradiction, humour and transformation with a cast of sharply tailored city figures, some ready for the slopes and some ready for the corporate grind. A cowboy silhouette appeared beside a raver. A sharply dressed banker walked past a femme fatale who looked as though she had just stepped out for the night. And of course, there were two mannequins brought to life through trompe l’oeil.
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As for the collection inspiration, the starting point was a vintage mesh T-shirt from Lantink’s wardrobe featuring Marlene Dietrich. Her image appeared again throughout the collection, reinforcing the show’s fascination with rebellious figures.
Lantink also revisited the house archive. Sculptural tailoring grew out of a pinstripe suit from a past couture collection. A cropped bomber jacket returned almost unchanged from the 1980s. Fair Isle knits reappeared as tight base layers. Technical boundaries are pushed through sculptural tailoring that evolved from a 2016 couture pinstripe waist. Lantink breathes fresh life into a 1985 cropped bomber and transforms 1990 Fair Isle knits into sleek, body-hugging layers. Even rubber car tires are stripped of their original purpose and reborn as accessories.
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Elsewhere, the designer’s signature experimentation continued to come through. Car tires became accessories and pleated jersey dresses bounced with movement.
