Maison Margiela Shut Down Shanghai With a Show Full of Firsts
Fashion history in the making.
Being present at Maison Margiela’s Fall/Winter 2026 showcase made it clear that this was a moment of fashion history in the making. The French house arrived to Shanghai, in a shipyard outside of the city center, to debut a collection full of firsts. It was the first time the French label has shown outside of Paris, the first collection under the direction of Glenn Martens, the first time the brand combined its Artisanal and Ready-to-Wear collections into a single, unified showcase and so much more. The result? Totally breathtaking.
The first thing to know is that each look was complemented by an Artisanal mask, honoring the uniformity and anonymity that the brand has become synonymous with. In terms of concept, the collection draws its soul from the atmosphere of a Parisian flea market after dark, focusing on the beauty of objects that have been discarded or forgotten. Porcelain, a material with deep Chinese roots, is a major pillar of the season. The effect is translated through eight layers of printed organza on dresses to mimic a ceramic sheen, while other Artisanal looks feature actual shattered porcelain shards fixed directly onto the body.
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The House’s obsession with “garment memory” continues through pieces that look like they were pulled from an Edwardian wardrobe. We see high necklines and lace finishes alongside a six-meter-long Edwardian painting that was transformed into a dress without a single cut of the scissors.
Technical experimentation remains at the forefront through the use of unconventional materials, bonding techniques and the signature “bianchetto” white paint treatment. The footwear department introduces the Level Cut-Out boots and the men’s Float shoe, which features an upper that appears to hover over a smaller sole. Even the accessories tell a story of “thrifting,” with jewelry appearing as if it were discovered in a market stall and dipped in wax.
But just wait, there’s so much more to be excited about. The presentation served as the starting point for MaisonMargiela/folders IRL, a twelve-day takeover spanning four cities that invites the public into the cryptic world of the brand. As you might have heard, the MaisonMargiela/folders will continue its tour of China starting in Shanghai on April 2. The first exhibition offers an unprecedented look into the house’s couture atelier. For the first time, the brand will share insights into past designs, featuring archival looks from Martin Margiela himself, John Galliano and Glenn Martens. Unlike traditional galleries, this exhibition will live on the literal street, with archival looks housed inside shipping containers for public viewing.
Its second showcase in Beijing will focus on the brand’s storied history with masks. In the world of Margiela, models rarely walk the runway without a headpiece that reinforces the theme of anonymity.The display will feature 45 masks, ranging from new creations to historic archival pieces and will include contributions from four guest designers.
Next, MaisonMargiela/folders will head to Chengdu for an exhibition focused on the Tabi, the split-toe shoe that has been a “key code” of the brand since its inception. The house interviewed Tabi collectors from Los Angeles to Mexico City to showcase how individuals around the world have personalized their pairs. Finally, the tour will conclude in Shenzhen with an interactive Bianchetto atelier experience.
For more Maison Margiela news, read up on its recent drop with Supreme.
