Acne Studios SS26 Reinterprets the Female Gaze
“Not from the expected gaze but on her multi-faceted sense of self.”
Acne Studios‘ Spring/Summer 2026 show, held inside the Collège des Bernardins, was presented within a tongue-in-cheek cigar lounge of wooden panels and mocha carpet. The collection toyed with gender tropes; “a chance to explore received ideas about assertive femininity,” according to the press release. This was a refreshing take, considering the increased hypersexualizaition and transparent clothing that we’ve seen normalized on fashion week runways.
At its Paris Fashion Week showcase, women stormed the runway in cartoonishly large cowboy boots and work boots puffed up like overinflated airbags, all paired with delicate lace, satin slips and outwear styled over one arm. A lumberjack shirt tucked into a sheer skirt? Absolutely. Slashed jeans stiffened with latex? Why not. As for accessories, reflective aviators, chunky belts and earrings big enough to double as wind chimes, packed a serious punch. This is womenswear — with serious autonomy.
@hypebae @Tems says au revoir after @acnestudiosofficial’s #parisfashionweek show 💫 Video: Hypebae #tems #pfw #acnestudios ♬ African beat – Made By J
Everything felt confident without trying too hard, glamorous without gloss. The brand’s FROW echoed this sentiment with it-girls including Sevdaliza, Shygirl and Tems, which makes sense because, ultimately the show was about people. “I’ve always felt that creativity is perhaps about being able to see the world in a way you didn’t realise could be seen,” shares creative director Jonny Johansson. “There are people who can do that to you, they make the world feel different, they stand out and tell you a new story.”
The takeaway? Acne Studio’s woman is not waiting to be seen. She’s already here, stomping past tradition in extra-long, steel-toed boots.
