Fashion Gets Down and Dirty at This New London Exhibition
Offering a dumpster-dive into fashion’s fascination with filth.
Fashion has long embraced its dirty side, from scuffed sneakers to mud-caked models to ‘Hobo-core,’ and now we’re getting a deep dive into its rebellious and romantic potential, through an all-new exhibition at The Barbican.
Titled “Dirty Looks: Desire and Decay in Fashion,” the exhibition brings together over 60 fashion houses and emerging designers from across the globe to trace the industry’s enduring obsession with filthy aesthetics. While museum curators will usually be doing everything they can to ensure each piece is in perfect condition, that may have been less of a worry this time.
The aesthetic emerged in the West as a form of rebellion, a way of questioning consumption habits and redefining the idea of luxury and beauty. First seen on the runway in the 1980s, Vivienne Westwood was one of the major designers championing the look, with mud often used to question notions of class and refinement, and eventually taking punk mainstream. At a similar time, Japanese designers Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto were questioning Western notions of perfection through creating deconstructed designs to abstract the norm.
Later, Alexander McQueen shocked with his Fall/Winter 1995 collection that referenced the brutality of the Scottish Highland clearances during the 18th and 19th centuries, with dirt and grass splayed across the runway and models wearing battered and torn clothing. Elsewhere, Hussein Chalayan’s powerful 1993 graduate collection famously featured garments buried in his friend’s backyard for six months. These rust-ridden dresses are also set to be on display at the exhibition.
Today, while distressed clothing doesn’t provide that same shock factor as it once did (except when visiting grandparents in your ripped jeans), a new wave of designers is pushing the boundaries to explore novel ways to visualize renewal and rebellion. Some featured in the exhibition include Paolo Carzana, launching his eponymous label after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2020. He’s often seen using old rags and recycled materials to create raw and poetic designs that explore the notions of strength and fragility.
Another on the lineup is couture contortionist Michaela Stark, known for her custom-made lingerie that questions conventional beauty standards through morphing body shapes. You’ll also find four pieces from Robert Wun’s FW23 and SS23 collections, including a wine-stained gown and a burned silk ensemble. Ripped, stained and covered with mud, rust and blood, this is the antithesis of glamor. This is grotesque glam.
To bring the exhibition to life and immerse the viewer, the space will also receive a “dirty” makeover. Surfaces are intentionally destroyed and scents provide a suitably themed experience. Prepare to feel fashionably filthy.
The exhibition is now on at the Barbican in London until January 25, 2026.
In other art news, check out this must-see exhibition in New York.
