Blumarine SS26 Embraces Gothic Romance with a Darkly Seductive Edge
David Koma’s sophomore collection for the brand reimagines butterflies as emblems of light and shadow; equal parts sweet and dangerous.
Blumarine‘s Spring/Summer 2026 collection unfolded as a tale of dark romanticism at Milan Fashion Week. Creative Director David Koma, who runs his own namesake label in London, stepped into Blumarine last season with a debut that carried hints of the spirit of his own brand. This season, however, the transformation felt perfectly complete. SS26 was unmistakably Blumarine: romantic, daring and true to the house’s DNA. Achieving that in such a short span is no small feat, and it proves why creative directors deserve time to settle into an archive, and underscores the pay-off that follows. This season, Koma delivered something both exciting and celebratory for Blumarine. Looking ahead, this moment will stand as a turning point in the brand’s story, a milestone that defines its evolution.
As for garment details, the house’s signature butterfly met the season’s dragonfly motif, both fluttering across delicate fabrics and anchoring the narrative of light and dark. Georgette dresses billowed with layered ruffles, twisted bows and raw edges, their sweetness undercut by gothic intensity. Satin gowns embroidered with butterflies took on a brooding energy, while sheer elastic tulle, embroidered like spiderwebs, added a sense of fragility stretched to its limits.
Accessories sharpened the fantasy: metal crosses draped across chokers, dragonfly charms clung to necklaces and hammered cuffs wrapped the arms like a second skin. This was Blumarine at its most alluringly complex, a return to the archives through an accurate depiction of the multiplicities of its audience today. We can’t wait to see how Koma’s vision for the brand continues to unfold.
For more runway reviews from Milan Fashion Week, read up on Moschino’s “Niente” collection.
