Laura Gerte Reimagines the Female Villain for FW26
The Berlin-based designer unpacks her sharp exploration of power and textile transformation through the lens of reclaimed materials.
Berlin-based designer Laura Gerte unveiled her Fall/Winter 2026 collection, “Deviant Defiant,” at Berlin Fashion Week with a cohesive narrative that centers on the strength and eroticism of the female villain. Backstage, the designer shares with Hypebae that this inspiration stems from “the cultural trope of female villains being deviant but in their deviance they are defiant and powerful.” Departing from traditional cautionary tales, the collection utilizes high-performance tailoring and experimental fabric manipulation to reframe villainy as a symbol of unyielding personal power.
The collection marks a maturation for Gerte, leaning into a more serious and “adult” aesthetic while maintaining her signature tension between fragility and structural rigidity. The palette is dominated by dark, moody hues executed in a diverse array of materials, ranging from sculpted wool and fluid jersey to tight satin and mesh. These fabrics are cut into slim, elongated silhouettes that are occasionally disrupted by unexpected volumes and dramatic draping, creating a look that is both disciplined and provocative.
Central to the “Deviant Defiant” philosophy is the use of circularity as a design tool. By sourcing deadstock and recycled textiles, Gerte creates “textile hybrids” that retain the history of their original forms while being reborn into contemporary luxury pieces.
This season also sees a unique partnership with Dr. Martens, where the brand’s iconic footwear is deconstructed and repurposed. On the collaboration, Gerte explains “[she] approached them because of what they stand form, subversiveness and quality.” These structural elements are integrated directly into the garments and accessories, shifting the function of the boots while preserving their inherent cultural grit.
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