Our Five Favorite Instagram Accounts This Week: Queer Designers You Need to Know
Featuring No Sesso, Vaquera, Sies Marjan and more.
In celebration of Pride Month, we’re highlighting five LGBTQ designers you should be paying attention to right now. Among the selections, we’ve included No Sesso which is helmed by trans designer Pierre Davis in addition to Christopher Johns Rogers, an eponymous label based in Brooklyn, New York. This week’s roundup provides a spotlight for small brands that have created distinct pieces that speak to the immense depth within the queer community and the designer’s backgrounds.
Keep reading below to check out our favorite picks created by LGBTQ designers.
HYPEBAE PICK: Created back in 2015, No Sesso is spearheaded by trans designer Pierre Davis. The Los Angeles-based designer has been known to mix relaxed pieces with garments that are a bit reminiscent of vintage separates. In this past New York Fashion Week, Davis showcased a matchless and imaginative Fall/Winter 2019 collection during her presentation. The range which was the designer’s first-ever show in New York (the brand’s second show ever) consisted of a luxe bustier, faux fur pieces, patchwork pants and more.
View this post on Instagram
@Oyinda in Look 14 from Fall 2019. Tulip shaped frock with hand-painted bustier by @drake.carr and layered skirt in shades of Electric Flamingo, Whisper Pink, Lobster and Cotton Candy tulle with matching Lobster tulle shawl. Thank you @gregoryalfred for helping with the construction of this look! ?❤️? Photography: @revivethecool Production: @j_u_l_e_s_r_u_l_e_s Lead Makeup: @marcelogutierrez Hair: @uhmmwhat Art Direction: @christinachanel In collaboration with: @drake.carr Footwear courtesy of: @manoloblahnikhq
HYPEBAE PICK: At just 25 years old, Baton Rouge-born designer Christopher John Rogers has built a close-knit community with his punchy pieces packed with energetic prints. Recently, the creator was announced as a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund 2019 finalist among other emerging talents. For his FW19 collection which was his second presentation, he stuck to his guns and served up a color-heavy lineup including dramatic gowns, patterned eveningwear and chic suiting ideal for cocktail hours. Rogers’ talented eye for womenswear is unmatched at the moment.
HYPEBAE PICK: When we think of Sies Marjan, the brand dreamed up by Dutch creative director Sander Lak, we think of garments created with immense attention to detail and cult-worthy platform footwear. Though the brand has only existed since 2016, it has risen swiftly in its status thanks to Lak’s ability to evoke emotion. If you take one look at the color-centric, romantic FW19 presentation from back in February, you’ll get it. Marking his first show (Spring 2019), Lak won the prestigious Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent at the CFDA Fashion Awards back in 2018.
View this post on Instagram
Speaking to designer Raul Lopez after he debuted his latest Luar collection this afternoon, it came as a bit of a surprise to hear him cite as inspiration the Brooklyn girls he used to admire back when he was a preteen hanging out on the block. Sure, the show had the “viciousness” Lopez recalled of those girls, a certain strut that conveyed the attitude “I know who I am, and what I’ve got.” But the clothes on the runway had hinted at another story: This collection, much more streamlined, accessible, and elevated than Luar outings past, was heavily indebted to classic menswear. He was playing with the idea of suiting. There were button-downs and cable knits and pinstripes and glen plaids. For a brand so adamantly anti-binary, it made for a notable change of pace. And then you got it. This is what the end of patriarchy looks like: Fierce fatales of whatever gender making a glorious mess of the old male power structure codes. Trying them on, making them their own. It made for some truly eye-catching looks, like the tennis-skirt-trouser hybrids in plaid, with tiers of rigid pleats down one leg, or a trenchcoat covered in a film of glossy black mesh, or a “suit” comprised of a deconstructed pinstripe jacket and matching leg-warmer-y things with long flags of fabric attached at the calf. Many of the looks here were retail-friendly, in particular the patchwork fur, the handkerchief-hem skirts, and zip-detailed pants, and lots of people will be clamoring for the Luar belt-handled satchels, with clear plastic bags just the right size to hold a set of keys and a phone. But some ensembles did make you wonder: Must all the revolutions happen at once? Might not a dress, for example, still cover an ass? That’s a niggling complaint, given that Lopez made a huge leap here, in terms of thinking through the practicality of his clothes. This season, he made you believe he knows what he’s got, and who he is. Thanks for such a perfect review!
HYPEBAE PICK: At one point during Raul Lopez’s fashion journey, he was one of lead designers at New York brand Hood By Air, according to THEM. Once he decided to move on from HBA to launch his own genderless line he began building his own brand, LUAR. The brand’s most recent FW19 show was inspired by the Brooklyn girls Lopez admired years ago when he was a preteen, as reported by Vogue. That inspiration led to inventive denim pieces, rich textured separates and zip-detailed pants. One moment that proved to be monumental for the designer included a wedding gown he designed for his friend Cynthia Cervantes that quickly went viral. The whimsical all-white piece featured a dreamy headpiece and a splendid draping technique.
View this post on Instagram
HYPEBAE PICK: Made up of four designers (Patric DiCaprio, David Moses, Bryn Taubensee, and Claire Sully), Vaquera has been on our radar for quite some time now. This brand seemingly emerged out of thin air a bit over three years ago. Since its launch, it has shared unconventional designs that willingly could be described as gaudy and experimental. For example, its FW18 show held in New York took direct inspiration from religious practices. This led to a collection including an outlandish christening gown, a craps-table T-shirt dress and dress created with a pastor’s robe in mind among other head-turning selections.