Thom Browne made his debut in Paris Couture Week with a dramatic Fall/Winter 2023 collection at Opéra Garnier that left us craving for more. With a focused palette of shades of grey, Browne’s collection emphasized the interplay of silhouette and movement, creating an extraordinary visual experience.
The transformative power of the theatrical presentation was unmistakable as the venue itself became a surreal spectacle. The auditorium buzzed with anticipation as 2,000 two-dimensional onlookers, dressed in Thom Browne’s iconic grey uniforms, filled the space. The show commenced with a solitary figure elegantly donning a handmade grey wool suit, followed by porters gracefully carrying silk frames and luxurious leather luggage, evoking a sense of mystery and intrigue.
Bells in cloche hats ushered in models draped in three-dimensional trompe l’oeil wool tailoring. Aquatic motifs adorned fully canvassed coats and tailoring, while mermaids covered in gold bullion scales and starfish in lunéville hand-hooked beads dazzled the audience. Custom latex trompe l’oeil shirt-and-tie leotards by Vex Latex, socks and opera gloves added surreal touches.
As the show reached its climactic peak, pigeons took flight in exquisite beaded dresses, while gargoyle-like figures made a dramatic entrance in embroidered coat dresses. The conductor emerged, commanding attention in a mixed tweed trench coat adorned with intricate embroidery, showcasing maritime motifs with finesse.
The finale showcased a model adorned in a breathtaking transparent beaded dress, a remarkable interpretation of Thom Browne’s iconic suit. The dress exuded an ethereal translucence, meticulously crafted with layered tulle and organza, creating an enchanting play of light and shadow. As the model and the train passed each other, their fleeting connection lingered momentarily before dissipating into the captivating grey ambiance, leaving an indelible impression.
Step into the world of Thom Browne and explore the backstage magic in the gallery above. In case you missed it, Schiaparelli goes for gold with Fall 2023 couture collection.