Do We Even Want To Wear Shoes Anymore?
Footwear is officially going back to basics.
Shoes are over. There. We said it.
If this past month of releases is any indication, it’s safe to say that our attitude toward footwear has changed significantly — and we don’t just mean swapping our Sambas for Speedcats. Though we’ve witnessed a serious decline in the dad sneaker and an increase in our affinity for football boots and snout-ier styles, another somewhat controversial trend is beginning to emerge: barefoot shoes.
Evidenced by recent drops from YZY, Vibram and Balenciaga, the slow-but-sure transition towards barely-there footwear is officially upon us. Silhouettes in general have become flatter, sleeker and anything but oversized — but all along, there were signs. Not long before the Samba slowed down in popularity, Onitsuka Tiger‘s Mexico 66 was a favorite amongst the fashion crowd and eventually, PUMA’s Speedcat emerged to take its crown, showcasing a gradual shift towards more streamlined silhouettes and boot-inspired designs.
Along with this came releases like MM6 Maison Margiela‘s Sprinter sneaker, plus the first-ever sneaker from ADER ERROR – both sporting narrow-toed uppers with flatter soles. Meanwhile, a rising interest in traditional outdoor shoe brands like Keen and Salomon was slowly building thanks to the gorp-core aesthetic many of us co-opted post-pandemic and a growing love for the outdoors.
Apparently, this shift meant that it was Kanye West‘s time to shine, reviving his YZY moniker to release the brand’s new slipper shoes. Essentially resembling an insole with an upper, the subtle silhouette boasts a textured grip sole to support its wearer on outdoor endeavors.
We also witnessed this same transition infiltrate the novelty shoe market. After MSCHF‘s big red boots came Bravest Studios’ Moon Clog and all the while, interest (and most likely, curiosity) surrounding Vibram’s distinctive five-finger silhouettes began to rise.
Somewhat of an obsession with our actual feet and toes seemed to play a part, with more designers and artists looking to the anatomy of the foot as an unlikely source of inspiration. A recent exploration by special effects make-up artist Alona Sobolevska comes to mind here, plus the foot boots from Natasha Zinko‘s Fall/Winter 2024 runway show.
This transition to more visible feet was evidenced by our summer footwear choices too, particularly the rise in mesh ballet flats and slippers. The return to sheer footwear suggested a want and need for more breathable silhouettes, whilst also confirming our cyclical love for nostalgia. Its rise also suggested a later coordination with footwear trends and fashion trends, with the SS24 season confirming sheer fabrics were in. Footwear trends typically follow that same format, but just a little later and since we’ve recently seen brands and designers exploring nudity and skin as inspiration, it makes sense then, that footwear would soon after follow suit.
With that, comes the recent release of Balenciaga’s controversial Barefoot Zero shoe. Featuring nothing but a molded sole, the “shoe” attaches to the wearer’s foot by simply wrapping around the toe. Arriving in three neutral colorways with subtly embossed Balenciaga branding on the side, it seems that, ironically, the shoe isn’t here to make a statement but instead wants to blend in.
These new releases, while in keeping with fashion’s experimental and playful ethos and need for innovation, also seem to signal a shift in priority for footwear lovers. Overcome with rising prices, dissatisfying drops and a certain level of impracticality, it feels like an opportunity to take back some control and redirect the focus back to our actual feet and their needs — suggesting a switch from fashion-forward to functional.
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Now we’re not suggesting that sole-only shoes or painted-on toes are the most practical of options, of course, but we do co-sign the idea that brands, artists and designers are sort of beginning to take things back to basics. With these releases, it feels like we’re finally paying attention to details like how the soles attach to our feet and how the materials make us feel, as opposed to just what they look like.
That said, aesthetics are still as important as ever to most consumers (and particularly, to fashion fans), so it’ll be interesting to see just how accepting we become of this new “barefoot” era.
Until then, keep your kicks close and your socks even closer…
