Pierpaolo Piccioli Brought Cristobal's Balenciaga Into the 21st Century
A debut fit for a queen. Or at least, the Princess of Genovia and Meghan Markle…
Demna‘s triple S sneakers were always going to be incredibly large shoes to fill, and sometimes, the obvious choice for a new creative director is to take things back to where it all began. That seems to be the methodology of Pierpaolo Piccioli, who made his debut for the brand this season at Paris Fashion Week.
Attended by the likes of Anne Hathaway, Simone Ashley, Law Roach and even the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, the debut was among the most highly anticipated this season.
Leaning into Cristobal Balenciaga’s penchant for tailoring and opulence, the collection brought the brand’s initial ideas “into the present,” paying — according to the brand’s show notes — not an homage, but “recalibration.” Hardcore Demna fans may say Piccioli erased any evidence of his era, with not a slogan tee or shrunken hoodie in sight. Despite the lack of obvious “spectacle,” the collection featured a subtle nod to the previous designer’s eccentric vision: several pairs of wraparound sunglasses.
Reimagining “traces of the past,” the collection favored glamorous ball gowns cut into crop tops and balloon skirts, incredibly tactile midi-dresses featuring flourishing floral motifs and contemporary tailoring, injected with asymmetric hems, unusual silhouettes and vibrant colorways.
Elsewhere, the collection featured a slew of more casual attire, resulting in chic leather jackets, classic chinos and knitwear, tributing Balenciaga’s architectural shapes and detail-oriented construction. Paying particular attention to cut and color, this season’s Balenciaga speaks entirely through its fabrics and design.
Take a look at the collection above and for more from PFW, check out our latest recap.
