Andreas Kronthaler’s Vivienne Westwood FW25 Was *Full* Of Meaning
“Now is the time to make decisions and changes.”
Tradition dictates that at the end of a fashion show the designer take a bow. Some are shy and reluctant (Jonathan Anderson, Simone Rocha); some are sprinters (Chet Lo, Harris Reed), some are gregarious (Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano in his early days). But a designer rarely takes their moment in the spotlight – and the culmination of months of work – to celebrate International Women’s Day. But that is exactly what Andreas Kronthaler did at Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2025 show at Paris Fashion Week. As he made his way down the full length of the runway, Kronthaler gave out flowers to women in the audience, in tribute.
The show itself was laden with meaning, too. Hosted at Pavillion Carbon and watched on by a star-studded lineup including Ice Spice, Chappell Roan, PinkPantheress, Paris Jackson and The Last Dinner Party, the collection featured 56 looks in total.
“The number 19 is associated with energy, expansion and a new start,” read the show notes, alluding, no doubt to the fact that this was the very first time that the Vivienne Westwood mainline with Andreas Kronthaler collections were combined in one. “This collection is about honoring the place I have lived for more than thirty years,” explained Kronthaler, “London.”
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Harris Tweed in an array of shades and patterns features alongside Yorkshire wool and, of course, plenty of tartan. “Vivienne has taught me the love for tailoring and knitting,” the designer recalled. “We always made it an anchor to every collection. Tailoring is an English invention; the formality it gives you is a framework to express yourself. There’s nothing more sexy than a suit!” And there were plenty of those.
As for the styling, it was as Westwood as ever. Hats were layered two or three high, ties ran so long they practically became tripping hazards. In an unexpected twist, skis and snowboards also made their way down the runway, too.
Kronthaler’s references ran the gamut: Quentin Crisp, Brigitte Bardot, Gertrude Stein, Cecil Beaton, Jerry Hall, Prince, Carey Grant, Rihanna and, as ever, Vivienne Westwood. It’s been over two years since she passed away, but Westood’s presence is still acutely felt.
