New York Fashion Week has officially wrapped up. For the Spring/Summer 2020 season, designers kept showgoers on their toes. Rightfully so, the presentations were star-studded but they also featured coveted, trendy looks that we’re sure fashion insiders can’t wait to get their hands on.
Creative director Kerby Jean-Raymond has a vivid imagination. For the Pyer Moss SS20 runway show titled “Sister,” the designer selected Kings Theater located in Flatbush as the location. This massive space was the perfect setting for the collection directly inspired by Rosetta Tharpe which spanned 69 looks. The range featured colorful womenswear, menswear, and also collaborations with Reebok and Sean John. To bring his vision to life, Raymond worked with Brittney Escovedo, founder of the experiential event production company Beyond 8. This partnership led to a stage that was home to moving performances by “The Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in The Blood,” a sermon by Casey Gerald, in addition to a performance by singer Brent Faiyaz.
No Sesso’s SS20 show titled “I’d Rather Rescue Myself” was filled with inclinations from Pierre Davis and Arin Hayes’ travels to global cities. The collection which includes luxe American denim, logo-mania, nylon and silk introduces the No Sesso superhero Valentina. One particular look we loved was a denim jacket and shorts set which came with a “No Sesso” logo on the back. We’re also into the sequined denim cut-out romper and rainbow embroidered T-shirts. As a whole, the collection highlights a day in the life of Valentina: partying, going to the beach and running her business.
For his first runway show, Baton Rouge-born designer Christopher John Rogers opted to stick true to his quirks. The result was a stupendous, whimsical lineup of daywear and eveningwear. Rogers’ eye for vibrant motifs and lush fabrics was apparent in this collection. In total, his SS20 range proved that his sharp eye deserves a valid space in the fashion market, thanks to his lineup of oversized blazers, stunning gowns and chic two-piece sets.
Sander Lak is perhaps one of the most refreshing designers in the fashion industry today. The Sies Marjan SS20 show took showgoers through a journey down an unbeaten path. Lak served up expertly tailored separates, croc-embossed pieces (faux animal prints) and more. He shared with Vogue that he wanted to focus heavily on “genuine beauty” with this collection. This led to a cohesive, memorable range that was also marked by bold boots, expressive shoulder bags and trendy sandals.
Tomo Koizumi’s second presentation was held again in Marc Jacobs‘ Madison Avenue store. This time around, 18-year-old trans model Ariel Nicholson dressed and undressed in Koizumi’s breathtaking designs. The performative experience featured expansive pieces constructed of Japanese polyester organza, according to Vogue. The designer also managed to create jumpsuits and bodysuits this season, these additions were marked by ruffles and bows.
AREA’s SS20 runway show was a sheer wonder. The lineup was a mashup of what works well for the brand: luxe separates and imaginative staples. The presentation featured caged dresses, futuristic outerwear and accessories that begged to be worn at parties and night outs. What allows AREA to sit apart from other buzzy brands is that each of its pieces come across as playful and downright imaginative — this collection was both.
Helmut Lang helmed by Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson is experiencing a unique moment right now, and its SS20 presentation spoke volumes. The downtown staple unveiled an expansive collection featuring sheer design cues and noteworthy cuts. Staples in the range included expertly tailored outerwear and trousers that we can see shoppers flocking to if their taste level is this high. In the realm of accessories, we also spotted an eyewear collaboration with MYKITA on the runway. These pieces are inspired by Helmut Lang’s iconic aviator sunglasses shape and will come in a variety of silhouettes in the spring.
The highly anticipated Zendaya x Tommy Hilfiger capsule collection was hosted at the iconic Apollo Theater located in Harlem. For this line, Zendaya took direct cues from the ’70s and ’80s and sprinkled the cuts and silhouettes of these eras with a touch of Gen Z. Zendaya and Hilfiger’s teamwork proved to go over well. The line was filled with leather pants, chic blouses and more. The Euphoria actress told Vogue that looks for the show were taken directly from her grandmother’s life. Paying homage to the Apollo is no easy feat, but Zendaya and her longtime stylist Law Roach pulled off a fitting, lavish celebration of blackness.
As an avid follower of Dion Lee for years, it’s honestly refreshing to see the fashion house compile such a striking SS20 collection. The champions of the neutral range were versatile pieces such as mini bags, leather harness belts and functional bustiers. The collection also features a bandana pattern as a major print seen on sheer tops, strappy sandals and plain white tanks that were dressed up. Lee’s muses were also sent down the runway wearing trendy boots and luxe leather statement bags.
Priscavera’s SS20 runway show was hosted on the rooftop of the New Design High School in New York City. For her latest collection, designer Prisca focused on earth tones in addition to her beloved fire flames print. After the show, she shared that she took conceptual inspiration from Hieronymus Bosch’s painting of the Seven Deadly Sins and why it’s often attributed to women. She also noted that she had her customer in mind when designing, who she described as “an easygoing, sexy, cool girl.” Lighter fabrics were also a main focus for the collection, as the designer spoke about being further inspired from her late grandmother’s clothing. Her favorites from the collection were a chiffon skirt and drawstring baggy pants.