Tolu Coker's SS25 Collection Was a Moving Tribute to Her Mother
From a ’60s home-inspired set design to Jourdan Dunn walking the runway, the show had the audience in a standing in applause.
As this London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 season draws to a close, we’ve witnessed some unforgettable moments, but one that truly tugged at the heartstrings was Tolu Coker‘s spectacular finale on day three. The London-based, British-Nigerian multidisciplinary artist and designer has long drawn inspiration from her heritage, but for this SS25 collection, Coker delved even deeper, drawing on her familial and spiritual roots — most notably, her mother.
Despite growing up in a working-class family, Coker’s mother, Olapeju had a keen eye for fashion. She thrived on thrifting and upcycling fabrics, tailoring her own skirts, dresses and jackets, often influenced by the ’60s trends of sheath dresses, A-line minis, culottes and go-go boots in vibrant pops of color mixed with earthy browns and greens. This era and Olapeju’s creativity became the foundation for Coker’s collection, which is also named after her, “Olapeju,” as she reimagined those iconic silhouettes with her own bold, modern twist.
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WHERE: There’s not much you can do with the same venue space that every other NEWGEN designer uses right? Wrong. Tolu Coker put incredible thought into everything including the set design. From projected ’60s wallpaper and a welcome matt at the entrance of the venue, to real vintage furniture including: lamps, already sunk in armchairs and a laid out dining table, the brand really set the scene for a typical ’60s home.
WHO: The whole cast danced down the runway, led by British model, Jourdan Dunn.
SEE: Picture a ’60s Barbie doll — only with a bit less pink. Think go-go boots, retro-patterned outfits and even an umbrella as an accessory. The collection featured tan and beige mini-pleated skirts, PVC bottoms and three-quarter-length culottes. Standouts included tailored suits, print-belted dresses and matching PVC waistcoats and skirts. Jourdan Dunn graced the runway in a striking royal blue bustier dress, hugging her silhouette with a high slit, topped off with a matching hat.
And no, the artistry of the makeup choice wasn’t forgotten either. Models were glammed out in Twiggy ’60s inspired makeup — yes, think thick eyeliner under the arch of the brows in white, pastel blues and bold blacks.
As the show reached its finale, all the models gathered at the top of the runway and danced their way down, fully immersed in the music, radiating joy. The emotional crescendo came when Tolu Coker ran down the runway, embraced her brother and then shared a tight hug with her mother. Together, they walked hand-in-hand as Tolu shed a tear, met with a standing ovation and overwhelming applause. The room buzzed with raw emotion, leaving everyone with goosebumps. It was a show that touched hearts and stirred deep feelings.
HEAR: The brand hasn’t just used a recorded soundtrack, it pulled out a live brass band to play ’60s Nigerian music, giving the most energetic, fun and lively ambience to the whole show.
TOUCH: ’60s consistencies. So, pleated and fitted fabrics contrasted with smooth PVC leathers and textured denims to give the authentic home-made, tailored feel.
In other London Fashion Week SS25 Runway news, read about Sinead Gorey’s “High School Prom” show.
