Martine Rose's Off-Schedule Show Paid Tribute to London's Local Businesses
The SS26 collection evolved Rose’s signature shrunken tees and slogans while debuting a new Nike Shox collaboration.
Martine Rose presented her Spring/Summer 2026 collection through an off-schedule show during the now-cancelled men’s iteration of London Fashion Week. Transporting guests to a makeshift market in the center of the city, which once served as a job center, the showcase was accompanied by 22 unique vendors selling art, clothing, books, and music, each of whom had worked with Rose in some capacity.
Returning to London after becoming a core part of Milan Fashion Week‘s schedule, Rose continued to evolve her community focus, with every detail of the showcase serving as a poignant reminder of London’s blend of cultures and communities. As for the collection itself, Rose explored themes of “complicated characters, seductions and provocations.”
Spotlighting London’s local heroes, the collection favored “the suggestive” over “the available,” taking inspiration from the “blue movies” of yesteryear. Merging frizzy poodle hair, powdery pastels and shrunken tailoring, SS26 presented a slew of body-conscious forms that blended tightness with awkward proportions.
Reliving Rose’s blokecore era, the collection offered a range of sports-inspired jerseys, splicing T-shirts with remnants of sailing jackets and hybridized baseball cap tracksuits. Phrases like “Everything Must Change” and “Expect Perfection” made an appearance via slogan tees, with looks accessorized by tooled leather bags, echoing the souvenirs from Spanish markets, alongside handbags covered in stretchy T-shirts and scarves that featured wording from the classified personal adverts of retro adult magazines.
It wouldn’t be a Martine Rose show without Nike and SS26 was no exception. Debuting the latest instalment of the MR4 franchise, this season’s showcase featured new colorways of the Nike Shox MR4 mule.
Take a look at the collection above.
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