Martine Rose FW26 Is a Study in Gender Play and Expression
With flamboyance and dandyism at its core.
Martine Rose returns for Fall/Winter 2026 with a collection rooted in radical self-expression. Pared-back yet playful, the designer’s latest lineup takes the familiar and flips it on its head, transforming everyday clothing into something subversive and unapologetically real.
This season begins with real-life garments, reworked through Rose’s singular point of view. The result is a wardrobe built on contradiction: corset lacing disrupts workwear staples, while performative gender play unfolds through silhouettes that rely on attitude over polish. Renaissance-inspired proportions appear through sculptural hanging sleeves, while faux fur adds a hyper-textural edge, seen not just on jackets but unexpectedly sliced into denim panels.
The collection draws from a lineage of muses that transcend era and trend, with flamboyance and dandyism at its core. References span from Henry VIII to James Brown and boxer Prince Naseem, the latter’s iconic ring walks inspiring pigment-aged logo sweat towels transformed into functional hoods on coats and hoodies. Boxing shorts are styled with shirts featuring pleated, crushed camisole panels plated across the front, further blurring gender boundaries. Elsewhere, parkas with plissé back inlays continue the dialogue between traditional menswear power pieces and classic feminine codes.
Footwear arrives with equal attitude. A new deconstructed work boot lands in calf leather, complete with a bulky toe and zip detailing, while faux python mules are layered with suede panels that echo the clothing’s plating techniques. The Martine Rose x Nike Shox sneaker also makes a return in an exclusive red colorway. Rounding out the offering is a debut jewelry collaboration featuring earrings, a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch shaped like a bottle top bent open. Raw, tactile and distinctly Rose.
Captured through a stripped-back lens inside a studio-like setting, the imagery mirrors the collection’s honest energy. Scroll through the shots above for a closer look, and head to the Martine Rose website to explore more.
In other news, check out the Wales Bonner FW26 collection.
