How Emily Arakawa's EMPATH Became a Pop Star Staple
Worn by everyone from Charli XCX and KATSEYE to Kylie Jenner.
If you’ve been keeping an eye on what Charli XCX has been wearing lately, chances are you’ve already come across EMPATH. The Los Angeles-based label has quietly become a favorite among the pop star (most recently spotted wearing the label’s UZU dress at her 34th birthday celebrations) and a growing roster of celebs, including Kylie Jenner, Anya Taylor-Joy, Tinashe and KATSEYE. But behind its rising cult status is a considered design philosophy rooted in the personal history of founder and designer Emily Arakawa.
Japanese-Singaporean and raised between cultures, Arakawa draws on her upbringing in Tokyo, fusing references from Japanese archival grunge with the pared-back refinement of 1990s minimalism. The result is a wardrobe that feels nostalgic in a way that you can’t quite place, balancing undone silhouettes with a quiet attention to construction and materiality.
Each EMPATH piece is designed and produced between Los Angeles and Japan, with Arakawa working closely with local ateliers and small-scale workshops. Materials are similarly considered, combining locally sourced deadstock with specialty fabrics imported from Japan and Korea, focusing on natural fibers.
As EMPATH continues to find its way into the wardrobes of some of pop culture’s most influential names, Hypebae caught up with Arakawa to discuss the label’s origins, her creative influences and why EMPATH is resonating with a new generation of cool girls, with the label quickly going from ‘if you know you know’ to ‘let’s gatekeep this.’ Read on for the full interview.
Can you tell us a bit about EMPATH and how you started the brand?
I started the brand back in 2021 while I was still working a corporate job. I started very small, launching with a matching top and pant set, shooting product photos on my roommate in my living room. I’d drive to the fashion district after work every day to work with pattern makers and sample makers. I didn’t come from a design or fashion background, so everything in those early days was very experimental, learning through trial and error.
What made you take the leap to make your own clothes?
Starting EMPATH felt like the only way I could find to get back into fashion. Because of my visa situation, I couldn’t legally work in the industry in the way I wanted to, so the only option I could see was to create my own way in and build something myself. In a strange way, that limitation is what ultimately pushed me to build EMPATH.
You’re Japanese and Singaporean, brought up in Tokyo. How would you say your heritage influences your designs?
Growing up in Tokyo, I spent almost every weekend as a kid wandering around Shibuya and Harajuku. The 2000s were peak gyaru-era, and there were so many subcultures in Japanese street fashion. I was always drawn to the grungier, rock ‘n’ roll and bohemian indie brands that filled Shibuya 109 back then, lots of distressed denim, slouchy knits, fur and lots of washed-out, earthy colors. I loved the way beautiful materials could be made to feel raw, imperfect and lived-in. My own approach is much more pared back and minimal, but I still love pulling elements of that disheveledness into something cleaner and finding the balance between the two.
Now that we produce a lot of our pieces in Japan, I feel even more connected to that side of my upbringing. I love being able to work with Japanese mills, fabrics and small factories and bring that craftsmanship into a brand that is also very much shaped by my life in LA.
What or who are your biggest influences when it comes to inspiration?
I love collecting old runway images, editorials, film stills and photography books. I love collecting magazines from the 90s and 2000s such as Jap (ジャップ) and old i-D. I love Juergen Teller, Norbert Schoerner, Helmut Newton and Kishin Shinoyama’s photography styles and that has definitely impacted the way I design and shoot my campaigns.
Charli XCX is often seen wearing Empath, recently dressed in a custom piece for her birthday. How did you start working with the star? Can you tell us a bit about this relationship?
It started very organically. Chris Horan and his team reached out to pull some pieces for Charli and asked if we would be interested in developing custom looks for her performances. She ended up wearing the Willow Hooded Dress and Uzu Dress while she was in London, and then we created a striped custom version of the Uzu for her. It’s been so exciting to see Charli incorporate these looks into her personal wardrobe. The striped Uzu Dress look was initially made for a performance, so I had no idea she was going to wear it for her birthday, so that honestly felt more special and personal.
Other stars wearing Empath include Kylie Jenner, KATSEYE, Anya Taylor-Joy and Tinashe. Who would be your dream to dress next?
I would love to dress Rosalía. I love how transformative her style can be, and I would love to create something custom for her. I’d also love to dress FKA twigs; she is so otherworldly, and I love the way she uses fashion as an extension of her performances and the characters she creates. I would also love to dress Gabbriette and Alex Consani; they’re such It-girls with amazing style.
A lot of your pieces are very wearable and made from comfortable materials. What would you say is your main focus when designing?
I think the tactile experience of wearing a garment is just as important as how it looks. I really focus on making pieces that are easy to live in and can stand the test of time. Oftentimes it comes down to making a beautifully constructed, seemingly simple garment in an incredible fabric.
Who is the EMPATH girl?
The EMPATH girl has a really strong sense of self. She’s curious, independent and has her own little world of niche interests and obsessions. She loves clothes but doesn’t let them wear her, there’s an effortless quality. She cares about the world and how things are made and the impact they have.
We love the Uzu dress. Do you have a favorite piece you’ve designed?
My favorite piece I’ve made might be the Stomata Slacks (which we are restocking for Fall), they are really the perfect sleek yet slouchy low-rise slack that moves so uniquely when you walk. This pant has been a signature silhouette of EMPATH that I’ve remade in so many different versions over the years and feels very core to the brand.
Where do you see the brand going in the future? What’s next for EMPATH?
I would love to do more custom performance looks and collaborate with other brands, maybe a sportswear brand or accessories brand. I’d also love to create more fun worldly fashion films and throw some fun parties.
