Having already gone behind-the-scenes at Han Kjøbenhavn’s Spring/Summer 2019 showcase at Copenhagen Fashion Week, we now head backstage once more. This time around, we go BTS at HELIOT EMIL’s SS19 presentation. Entitled “Referential Transparency,” the collection takes on a strong avant-garde aesthetic filled with plenty references to sci-fi and dystopian ideals. As outlined in a description printed on a transparent can of water distributed at the show, the designers – brothers Julius Juul and Victor Juul – explain the significance of “Referential Transparency”:
“Referring to a computer programming expression, a function is said to be referentially transparent if it’s replaceable. The collection explores how much of our personalities are replaceable, how much is transparent and experiments with the balance of form and functionality. The fabrics range from a semi-transparent white to heat sensitive thermo greys to deep black. SS19 will also be the introduction season of a full women’s wear line.”
A largely neutral palette comprised of black, white and grey is used – what the clothes lack in color variation it makes up for in truly unique silhouettes. Using custom crafted dual-lock carabiners, metal zip-ties and circle clips, each garment highlights utility details that could be imagined on both a mountaineering getup, as well as a forward-thinking fashion piece. Along with chic cut-and-sew items that showcase a distinct leaning towards asymmetric shapes, the program is also accompanied by sporty vibes. Further underlining the athletic undertones is a footwear collaboration with ASICS. Seen in sleek sneakers rendered in both black and white, select shoes are further detailed with carabiners as well as rope-like straps.
You can take a closer look at the collection through the backstage images in the gallery above. Stay tuned to see more of our coverage from Copenhagen Fashion Week.