Martine Rose Rewrites Masculinity for Spring/Summer 2021
Inspired by the ’70s underground gay scene of San Francisco, raves, football culture, bankers, hyper-masculine notions and sex.
London-based designer Martine Rose has just revealed her Spring/Summer 2021 range, which is a collection that is challenging the concept of men’s and womenswear as well as masculinity.
Inspired by everything from the 1970s underground gay scene in San Francisco, to football culture and bankers, the range merges together hyper-masculine elements with notions of sex and femininity and emphasizes Rose’s unique vision. With a focus on juxtaposition, tailored pieces are paired with sports jerseys, elongated blazers and eye-catching accessories like the “SEX” belt, and creates androgyny. One of the most stand-out pieces is the denim jeans, featuring a photograph of a man smoking on the leg, which was sourced by rave historian Steve Terry from SF’s gay culture and club scene.
For the more feminine silhouettes, Rose has created delicate and silky lingerie for both men and women, lace camisoles, garter belts, suspenders, and football socks – all giving the collection a kinky undertone. Playing with the concept of gender and fluidity, Martine Rose has managed to not only make her vision come alive, but also to do it in a way that feels deconstructed and real.
Take a look at the Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2021 collection in the lookbook above, and let us know your thoughts on the range in the comments below.
