David Koma Is Doing Things Differently – And We’re Here for It
The London-based designer on manifesting, the real reason he skipped the runway for SS25 and his new approach to fashion ahead of taking over at Blumarine.
When David Koma announced he wouldn’t show at London Fashion Week – a first in his eponymous brand’s 15-year history – many were shocked. He is, after all, the consummate showman. Famed for his sculptural silhouettes and body-contouring creations, his designs are literally made for a global stage. Spring/Summer 2025 marks a new beginning.
“It felt like the right time,” he tells Hypebae from his showroom in Paris. “It was a very mindful decision to try something different.” Like his designs, the digital collection campaign, starring Russian model Steinberg (and with a special appearance by his collaboration with French electric motorcycle brand DAB Motors) drew inspiration from the work of Australian artist Leila Jeffreys.
“I desperately wanted one of her bird portraits for my office last year when I was thinking about the refurbishment,” he explains. While the budgie picture that fueled his fascination may not have made it into his office (yet) it did start this brilliant flight of fancy. “I was obsessed with the way Jeffreys took birds into a minimalistic studio, and really captured the details that you might not notice if they were shot in nature.”
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Drawing inspiration from hummingbirds (for their elegance and energy) and swallows (romantic and fiercely loyal), Koma dreamed up a collection that feels as fresh as it is classically Koma. Block pastel looks in sorbet shades of lemon, blue, pink or peach sit effortlessly beside his signature black ensembles. Crystalized bird motifs flutter throughout, decorating a décolletage here, flying around the sheer overlay of a pencil skirt there, and even seemingly holding up the delicate draping on dresses, Cinderella-style.
Elsewhere, clever fabric choices echo the magic of hummingbirds (via iridescent, crystal-encrusted knitwear) and the lightness of feathers (as actual feathers in the case of sleeveless hoodies or the floral-feather details affixed to heavy chains, as well as delicate lace designs and sexy AF tulle ruffle bra tops.) There’s even jersey and denim in the mix, too.
“This is probably one of the strongest collections I’ve done so far in terms of the flow, the DNA elements, the colors… There is an amount of comfort in it, but is also quite risky because of the lengths and the cuts. But it also has this zen, calm feeling,” Koma notes.
The sense of serenity is undeniable and palpable in the designer himself. “Who I am and who I want to be finally match,” he says, reflecting on how he no longer feels that niggling anxiety he once battled. “I can be in a gala in LA, on holiday in the South of France or with the cool kids in London and I feel comfortable. Before I wasn’t. The level and style I’m going for is quite big and it’s a global brand, so it isn’t enough to just feel good in London,” he explains. “I’m focused, I’m professional, I trust my instincts. I believe it’s enough.”
He speaks confidently and without arrogance. This is a man who isn’t afraid of learning from his mistakes and who is acutely aware of the precarious position fashion (and the world at large) is in now. “It’s so scary, the number of designers that I love and admire who are closing down. It freaks me out,” he says.
“Every hour I do my best. I say ‘no’ to things, I know to not get overwhelmed or excited about things that I shouldn’t be excited about. And it’s about understanding that business is business. Before I was not able [to do this]. There were a lot voices and I had a lot of insecurities – a lot of ‘ what ifs’ – and now I don’t have it.”
Which is just as well, because Koma is making big moves. This year alone he showed his debut menswear collection in Milan and started his own swimwear line, in addition to adding to his long list of popular accessories (inspired by his padded biker jacket, The Racer bag joins the lineup this season). And, of course, he was appointed as the creative director for Blumarine, a role he is starting in earnest now. “I just came back yesterday, and it’s all good,” he says calmly, the benefit of his experience clear to see.
“At this point, it is about making sure that we start correctly: the correct people in the correct places, that I communicate the correct messages. I know that I’m a creative director and it’s about design, but to be honest, it’s not about design… It’s about people management, and it’s about team-building, and it’s about how everything – design, production, marketing – comes together. I can do a great show and design great product, but it means nothing if everything else isn’t in place.”
The next two years, he argues, will be the most important of his career. “It’s like I’m in a lift [or elevator], arriving on a different floor,” he says, manifesting his position in the business, clearly laying out a short, medium and long-term plan. Elevation, he explains, is key to his success.
So what can we expect? “I cannot tell you exactly, but it will be a whole year of different ways of doing things,” he teases, that quiet confidence shining through. We will gladly take it.
Click the gallery to see David Koma’s SS25 collection in full. And while you are here, why not read about Rick Owens’ SS25 runway show.
