Fashion East Celebrated 25 Years of Innovation for SS26
With Jacek Gleba, Mayhew and Nuba.
Fashion East has once again put on quite a show. On September 19 at the Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA), the talent incubator presented three rising talents for Spring/Summer 2026, reminding us why London Fashion Week is the hub for emerging talent.
The non-profit organization founded by Lulu Kennedy has been churning out stars for 25 years now, with alumni including Simone Rocha, Martine Rose and Wales Bonner. To honor this anniversary, the ICA hosted not only the runway show but also a retrospective exhibition to showcase the ephemera and raw history of Fashion East’s archives, titled “Us Lot: 25 Years of Fashion East,” powered by Nike.
For SS26, Fashion East presented its trio of designers with Jacek Gleba, a graduate of the Central Saint Martins MA, Mayhew, the eponymous label of London College of Fashion MA graduate Louis Mayhew and the return of Nuba by Cameron Williams.
Louis Mayhew, formerly a painter-decorator by day, showed a collection that was heavily informed by his trade and gave him access to materials rarely used in fashion. Mudlarking is also stated as a constant source of inspiration for the designer, following an ideology of using found and donated materials. You’ll see jerseys with clay pipes attached and tees with wired headphones, circa 2014, hanging around the neck. The beauty also echoed this deconstructive nature with back-combed hair and smudged eyeliner. Unorthodox and inimitable, Mayhew has got our attention.
Up next was Nuba, presenting his last of three collections with Fashion East. The designer continued his signature, calculated draping technique rooted in the Afro-Caribbean diaspora. The monochrome palette was given depth through its intricate craftsmanship and tailoring that hung delicately off the models. Titled “Solid,” the collection holds adaptability at its core. Jackets that can layer and separate, hooded tops that both conceal and reveal, everything is envisioned for wrapping and reshaping. The showstopper was the closing look, almost bird-like in nature. A white and feathered jacket layered over sheer white pants that floated down the runway.
Finally, Jacek Gleba closed with a dance-infused collection. Taking inspiration from ballerina Vaslav Nijinsky, Gleba created delicate and intentionally unfinished silks that used sporty lines and a soft palette. The designs are said to explore a balance of fluidity and firmness, looking at the discipline of dance as a whole. The warmup, the rehearsals, the worn-out ballet slippers, it goes far beyond the glamor. Heavy jersey fabrications were constructed close to the body, with lines and cutouts to mimic muscle placement. After years of dancing himself, Gleba’s study of the art and body has brought us a unique view of this mixture between sport and style.
With discourse surrounding the difficulties of participating in Fashion Weeks for brands, Fashion East once again provided a space for that much-needed optimism.
In other fashion week news, here’s what you may have missed at New York Fashion Week.
