The Emerging Designers To Watch at London Fashion Week SS27
From Liza Keane to Francesca Lake.
Of all the major fashion cities, London is known as the hub for new talent, offbeat shows and designers more interested in subverting the formula than sticking to any sort of idea of what fashion should be. The city has witnessed the beginning of careers including Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, who shocked audiences with their early collections and represented a sort of new guard in the ’90s. Today, the city’s reputation remains firmly intact.
London Fashion Week’s schedule continues to make space for emerging names, helped by initiatives like the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme and a fashion ecosystem that isn’t quite as dominated by legacy houses as Paris or Milan. The result is a week where editors, buyers and industry insiders can spend as much time looking for what’s next as they do watching the established names.
And the new guard is already making its presence felt. From Gui Rosa’s spiky headpieces spotted on KATSEYE, to Geordie Campbell’s provocative slogan tees, including the now-recognizable “Queer Boy” shirt, these are the designers bringing something distinctly their own to the London fashion landscape.
Read on for the full list of designers to watch this Spring/Summer 2027 season.
Liza Keane
Making its London Fashion Week catwalk debut as part of the BFC’s NEWGEN initiative, London-based eponymous label LIZA KEANE brings a distinct sensibility to contemporary fashion. Founded by the Central Saint Martins alumna in 2022, the label approaches clothing as an extension of her art practice, creating sculptural, second-skin pieces that explore the tension between seduction and strength. Sustainability is also central to the brand, with each collection made exclusively from upcycled and deadstock materials alongside natural-fibre fabrics. Already building a cult following among fashion insiders, LIZA KEANE’s fans include FKA twigs and Julia Fox.
Gui Rosa
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East London-based Portuguese designer Gui Rosa is bringing a maximalist approach to craft, mixing crazy crochet, subversive tailoring and plenty of embellishment. Their work plays with the tension between masculinity, ornamentation and performance, combining distressed textiles with intricate handwork passed down from their grandmother in Lisbon. Across fashion collections and film projects, Rosa embraces contradiction at every turn, finding beauty in excess. The label’s spiky hats, now synonymous with the brand, have also been spotted on global girl group KATSEYE.
Francesca Lake
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Multidisciplinary artist and designer Francesca Lake is also part of this year’s NEWGEN cohort, bringing a practice that sits somewhere between fashion, art and storytelling to London Fashion Week. Originally from Kingston, Jamaica, the Central Saint Martins graduate works across garment construction, ceramics, installation, film and prose, using clothing to explore cultural memory and amplify lived Jamaican experiences. Her work blends academic research with deeply personal narratives, creating immersive visual worlds that challenge and expand how Caribbean identity is represented in contemporary fashion. Oh, and the designer’s pieces have been worn by the likes of Rihanna, Naomi Campbell and Erykah Badu.
Agro Studio
AGRO Studio puts a distinctly British spin on glamor. Founded by design duo George Oxby and Angus Cockram, the East London studio combines traditional techniques like corsetry, tailoring and leatherwork with sharp silhouettes, playful styling and a healthy dose of irreverence. Made to order in small quantities, its designs are all about the power of dressing up, creating clothes that let the wearer step into a new version of themselves. That mix of sex appeal, precision and attitude has already attracted a growing roster of fans, with the brand having made custom looks for RAYE, Madonna, PinkPantheress, Lady Gaga, Zara Larsson and BTS.
Petra Fagerström
Swedish designer Petra Fagerström is blurring the line between fashion and the digital world. A Central Saint Martins MA graduate and L’Oréal Young Talent Prize winner, Fagerström is known for her experimental approach to textiles, particularly her signature lenticular pleating, which shifts from transparent to opaque as it moves, playing with these digital and physical oppositions.
Geordie Campbell
Geordie Campbell is putting a distinctly British spin on contemporary menswear. His work plays with the boundaries between masculinity and femininity, drawing on ideas of queer identity and coming-of-age to create clothes that feel both structured and soft. With a growing reputation for challenging traditional ideas of menswear, Campbell is quickly emerging as one of London’s designers to watch. He is also the man behind those “Queer Boy” T-shirts you’ve seen on all your favorite celebs and influencers.
Grete Henriette
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German queer artist and designer Grete Henriette is turning metalwork, jewelry and intricate beadwork into something closer to wearable sculpture. Drawing on historical craftsmanship, found objects and the rawness of nature, her designs play with ideas of protection, restriction and transformation. That distinctive approach has made her a favorite among a new generation of pop girlies, with Tyla, Addison Rae, KATSEYE, BLACKPINK and Jorja Smith all wearing her work.
Leo Prothmann
Munich-born, Mallorca-raised designer Leo Prothmann is bringing a little equestrian glamor to London fashion. Drawing on his childhood as a competitive rider, Prothmann blends the poise and structure of equestrian dress with a more experimental, high-glam sensibility, creating sculptural pieces that blur the lines between menswear and womenswear. Trained at London College of Fashion and with experience working alongside Rick Owens, Craig Green and Matty Bovan, his collections are shaped by an instinctive approach to color and texture informed by his background in expressionist painting. Each piece is designed and produced in-house in London, with a gender-fluid approach to dressing.
