Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fendi Debut Is A Love Letter To Emotional Durability
Stepping back into the Fendi atelier, the designer bypassed the easy allure of “logorexia” to focus on what she calls “Sartorial Regeneration.”
Fendi Fall/Winter 2026 opened with a sense of homecoming at Milan Fashion Week as Maria Grazia Chiuri returned to the house where her career first caught light. There is not a logo in sight clamouring for attention. Instead, Chiuri proposed what she calls “sartorial regeneration,” a shift away from the churn of trends and towards something she describes as emotional durability. In other words, her Fendi is about clothes that matter long after the algorithm has moved on.
Attendees of the showcase included Uma Thurman, Dakota Fanning, Shailene Woodley, Jessica Alba, Kitty Cash, Iris Law and brand ambassador Bang Chan.
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To start the collection ideation, Chiuri asked herself, “what if the message is not printed across the chest, but embedded in the making?”
What unfolded were floral embroideries crept across coats and dresses with obsessive precision. Fur was a heavy hitter as well, arriving in multi-color, primal colorways, almost if made of fictional characters. While the aesthetic nodded to the geometric rigor of the Viennese Secession, the mood was steered by a contemporary sense of belonging, influenced by a collaboration with SAGG Napoli. This partnership grounded the lace slips and translucent evening gowns with a sharp, modern perspective on the brand’s identity.
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Accessories told their own story and, of course, there was a new batch of freshly baked Fendi baguettes to admire arriving in zebra and tiger prints. Elsewhere, blazers were secured with diagonal toggle straps that suggested harnesses without fully committing to the reference and fur collars added a playful yet sophisticated touch.
In a moment when fashion often feels disposable, Chiuri’s proposition is simple and surprisingly radical. Desire, when rooted in craft and care, lasts… and we can’t wait to continue watching her craft evolve.
For more MFW news, check out what went down at Diesel FW26.
