Key trends we identified from MFW this season were furry footwear, a softening of corp-core, exaggerated hip and shoulder silhouettes as well as a continued emphasis on hyper-feminized dressing.
From emerging designers to heritage brands, we unpack the week below from the best collections to the best soundtrack.
While you’re here, come with us for a packed day at MFW below.
For the past three seasons, AVAVAV has made electrifying waves on the MFW circuit with its irreverent, audacious and deeply honest show concepts. For FW24, AVAVAV was inspired by the online hate the brand receives and manifested the digital clutter into physical trash thrown at the models as they walked. Outside of the show concept, the collection itself shows the brand growing up with smart tailoring, dreamy denims and sheer dresses.
Best Staging and Set Design: Diesel
After breaking a world record for the largest inflatable sculpture for SS23 to creating a gigantic mountain of condoms for FW23, you can always depend on Diesel to create a spectacle. This season, the brand staged a livestream where guests tuned in from around the globe. The digital attendees appeared from their offices, with their pets, in full glam; watching us while watching them. As an added detail, Diesel used the livestream as a graphic print in a variety of the garments in the collection.
Best Soundtrack: BALLY
BALLY FW24 was an ode to Swiss folklore combining muted palettes with nature-inspired shapes. In true ASMR fashion, the collection sang down the runway with bells attached to shoes, bags and jackets. To add to the mythical tone, the brand collaborated with musician Leo Mas to offer a sultry mysticism to the sound design. The playlist was available to enjoy later via a QR code on the show’s zine made in collaboration with Swiss publisher Nieves.
Best Collection: Jil Sander and Ferragamo
It was impossible to pick just one best collection but if we’re going with stylistic range, surprising shape and wearable design, Jil Sander and Ferragamo take joint gold. Jil Sander introduced tactile puffer jackets ranging from super slim to oversized while thick, pastel dresses gracefully hugged the curves of the body. Ferragamo’s FW24 collection was our favorite to date from the brand. Showcasing deep plum latex dresses, cozy knitwear and furry footwear, Maxamillian Davis is well and truly finding his way at the Italian label and we can’t wait to see what’s to come!
Best Creative Director Debut: Blumarine
Arriving from his past role at Tod’s, Blumarine’s new Creative Director Walter Chiapponi unveiled his debut show at MFW this season. Taking the brand to a more sophisticated form, Chiapponi’s Blumarine is elegant, lighthearted and provocative. Standout graphics from the debut include animal print tights, trenches and sweaters as well as a look busied with the text, “I Love You!” Elsewhere, Blumarine set its sights on yellow hues this season in the form of gloves, eyewear and trousers.
Best Footwear Collabs: SUNNEI and MM6
If you looked closely, you could see two very subtle footwear collaborations launched on the catwalk this season. The first being a collaboration between MM6 Maison Margiela and Dr. Martens arriving in a variety of colorways with DM’s famous yellow stitching. Next, at the SUNNEI show, models were seen holding covered shoes with “SUNNEI CAMPER, JUNE 2024” written on the seal. While the collab isn’t yet available, the team tells us that it draws inspiration from a discontinued CAMPER silhouette.
Honorable Mentions: Etro and MSGM
Before we go, we can’t forget to mention Etro and MSGM for their bold color choices for FW24 dressing. For its collection, Etro asked, “How many ways can you wear a scarf?” showcasing the knitted accessory used as skirts, dresses, bags and tops. While MSGM sought to celebrate the rebellious woman in various forms through the use of punk details, oversized garments and glossy materials.
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