3 Luxury Fashion Authenticators on How to Bag the Best Secondhand Buys
We speak to experts from Vestiaire Collective and Vinted to find out more.
For avid secondhand shoppers, it’s getting harder and harder to buy luxury fashion online without falling prey to scams and counterfeit goods. While luxury prices increase and resale becomes more and more popular, it can be tricky to work out when something is too good not to pass up, or simply, just too good to be true.
As a result, secondhand platforms began to launch authentication services to help give shoppers that extra bit of reassurance, allowing buyers to have their items shipped to a warehouse for physical authentication before getting the seal of approval. Vestiaire Collective was one of the pioneers of authentication, opening its hub back in 2017. eBay launched its Authenticity Guarantee program in 2020, beginning with a select few categories and brands, which has since expanded to include pretty much every luxury item. Finally, Vinted launched its Item Verification service in 2023 for items that are priced over £100 GBP.
With this rise in authentication and the fact that it’s pretty much become a requirement at this point, we’re left with a slew of experts who know their Prada from their nada and can smell a fake from over a mile away. Thankfully, they’re very eager to share their top tricks and tips to help you become the savviest secondhand shopper there is, and we’ve had a chance to speak to the best of the best.
Scroll down to hear from experts at Vestiaire Collective, eBay and Vinted on how to bag the best secondhand buys.
When authenticating an item, what’s the first thing you look for?
Victoire Boyer Chammard, Authentication Specialist at Vestiaire Collective: It depends on the brand, the category and the period (vintage or contemporary) as quality standards could evolve, but I always begin with a methodological approach, looking at the materials, stitching, engravings, logo details and even the smell and weight. Often, it’s the smallest inconsistencies that can raise red flags.
At Vestiaire Collective, physical authentication is just one part. We combine expert analysis with digital tools to verify authenticity. For every item that goes through our authentication centers, we analyze seller profiles and listings, use AI to flag any suspicious listings and use internal authentication technology.
Björn Holzhauer, Verification and Senior Brand Expert at Vinted: The overall craftsmanship and quality. Each brand has unique authenticity features that vary by item and production year. Some newer luxury bags have microchips, while others use security elements visible only under UV light, special serial numbers, or scannable QR codes, but they are also counterfeited today. We closely examine all features, including zippers, logos, stitching and metal parts, while also considering texture and scent.
eBay: First, we confirm the product is consistent with the listing title, description, and images, and then perform a multi-point physical authentication inspection – providing peace of mind for both buyers and sellers. This encompasses the general quality of materials and serialisation, as well as inspecting the item’s individual details. For sneakers that may be the box and soles of the shoe, for watches it includes the collateral, bezel and dial, and with handbags it may be the stitching, logo and zippers.
What are some of the most common mistakes people make when purchasing fake secondhand luxury?
VBC: One of the biggest mistakes you can make is to buy on price alone. If something looks too good to be true, it usually is. Another common mistake is relying on photos that are either too good or only have one or two perfectly taken shots. If there are photos that are too perfect, they should attract attention. The final mistake is to overlook inconsistencies in the seller’s profile. For example, someone offering several luxury items in very different sizes or styles, or inconsistent product descriptions.
BH: It’s becoming increasingly challenging for consumers to reliably identify counterfeits, as replicas are becoming more professional and sophisticated. Often, only experts with extensive experience can distinguish a meticulously made counterfeit from a genuine item. We’ve noticed three main things. The first: overlooking details, many people focus on the brand name rather than the quality of craftsmanship. Genuine luxury items often use high-quality materials and distinctive brand markings, which counterfeit items often lack. Then, trusting unverified sellers. Purchasing from non-reputable sellers without doing enough research can lead to acquiring fake goods.
Lastly, not knowing the market price. If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. A significantly low price can signal a counterfeit. To protect yourself from scams, take the time to understand the market, brands and models by researching the prices of similar items. But be aware that “superfakes” can also cost up to thousands of pounds.
eBay: Look for the little blue verification tick next to the listing – this means it is eligible for Authenticity Guarantee. With this service, our expert authenticators will undertake a rigorous physical inspection, as well as use specialist machinery to ensure you’re getting the real deal.
If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. But having a service like Authenticity Guarantee means it takes that burden off you trying to figure it out as the expert authenticators will be able to verify it for you, before the item even gets to you.
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Finally, what are some of the tips and tricks you’ve learned over the years?
VBC: Always look at the details, not just the logo, but the stitching alignment, hardware engravings, interior linings and even things like translation errors on care labels. Counterfeiters often get the small things wrong. Staying up to date with the latest news is essential.
Practice is also crucial, which is why every authenticator who joins the authentication team must see and handle thousands of items during hours of training. And my biggest advice: don’t go it alone. Buy from platforms that invest in expert-led authentication and fraud detection, like Vestiaire Collective. Between our trained teams, our AI risk monitoring and our physical authentication process, we’ve built a system that truly protects buyers and sellers, especially as counterfeiting becomes more complex.
BH: Do your research: Equip yourself with knowledge about the authenticity features of the brand and item you are interested in. Counterfeiters sometimes add extra elements or branding to enhance the perceived authenticity of fakes. For example, some brands like Louis Vuitton, Fendi or Gucci typically do not issue authenticity cards. Therefore, if you find such a card with these items, it is a strong indicator of a counterfeit.
Be skeptical of accessories: Nowadays, one should not only rely on dust bags, boxes or receipts, as these are also very professionally counterfeited. And sometimes, genuine branded packaging is combined with counterfeit items, so always check the item first. Review pictures: When buying second-hand luxury goods online, you may want to ensure listings include high-quality, detailed images of the item, including logos, labels and other authenticity features. Pay particular attention to interior details – these are often neglected when the seller is aware that the item is counterfeit.
Check the smell: Many counterfeit items, especially sneakers and bags, emit strong chemical odors, which can be a sign of fakes. Genuine products, particularly leather goods, often retain a consistent, distinctive scent that reflects the quality of the material used. However, be aware that some counterfeiters apply leather-scented perfumes to mask the smell of synthetic materials. If a product smells overwhelmingly like leather, it could be an attempt to disguise the use of low-quality or fake materials.
eBay: We always say to become friends with the seller. If you have any doubts, ask for more images or details, especially about aesthetic aspects. Also, take a look at seller feedback – check their profile and read reviews from past customers. eBay also assigns badges like ‘trusted dealer,’ ‘premium service,’ or ‘top-rated seller’ to those with consistent positive feedback, helping you identify reliable sellers.
