One Girl’s Trash Really Is Another Girl’s Treasure in BB Smith’s Upcycled World
Meet the British designer creating Tumblr-inspired boots from waste materials, as seen on Jorja Smith and FKA Twigs.
Meet the emerging British label that turns discarded materials into covetable, couture-inspired footwear. Blurring the line between sculpture and high-heeled shoe, BB Smith, fronted by Bristol-based designer Brogan Smith, uses repurposed waste to handcraft fiercely original pieces and we’re obsessed. The label draws on subcultural references and the internet-nostalgia of the 2010s to deliver something raw and completely unique.
Chanelling a rebellious sense of reinvention, you’ll find denim scraps reborn as deconstructed boots or recycled pony hair leather topping off metal-heeled mules. Each piece is one-of-a-kind and as rare as it is radical. But Smith isn’t just about upcycling; she’s created a unique visual language that feels part Tumblr archive, part fashion alchemy, tapping into everything from punk to cyber-futurism. The result? Footwear that’s both fashion-forward and culturally resonant.
If that didn’t already intrigue you, the designer also captured the attention of Jorja Smith, Tyla and FKA Twigs, all seen wearing her unique pieces. The brand’s elusive online presence only adds to its cult appeal with no product pages, just a cryptic spinning logo and a waitlist link. Exclusive, niche and painfully cool.
For this edition of Baes with Kicks, we stepped into Brogan Smith’s world to talk Tumblr rabbit holes, Vinted goldmines and working with her favorite artist. Read on to meet the designer behind BB Smith and get your unofficial invite to footwear’s coolest club.
Name: Brogan Smith
Location: Bristol, United Kingdom
Occupation: Founder and Designer, BB Smith
How and when did you first get into designing?
The [Fashion Communication] course [I studied at university] definitely helped me evolve my interest in designing and storytelling through my art and fashion, but I still lacked any formal training in how to sew or make shoes. A lot of the skills I’ve learned with regard to upcycling and creating without limits were taught and passed on to me by my grandma, who has been my greatest teacher from a young age. She taught me how to make my first dress at 16 and encouraged me to experiment and push boundaries when it comes to working with materials. She’s an amazing artist who works with a variety of mixed media and is a very accomplished seamstress!
You mention drawing on subcultural references for your designs. Can you share some of these inspirations?
A big inspiration for me, from my teenage years, was the whole Tumblr movement during the early 2000s. It really shaped my own personal style and identity and has allowed me to embrace a creative approach in terms of how I design and create now. Scrolling through endless imagery of fashion, art and photography from a young age opened my eyes and my mind to the diversity of styles and aesthetics that are out there. I still spend time on Tumblr, reblogging, saving images and creating moodboards from whatever I take inspiration from. Through the years, I’ve also been drawn to a lot of punk and gothic references. I have always loved and admired how unapologetically authentic both these subcultures are in how they present themselves, and I aim to translate these influences into my own work and creative thinking.
What’s on your current moodboard?
Currently, a lot of leather and studs.
Sourcing deadstock materials must be both rewarding and challenging. How do you go about finding new materials to use?
If I’m after something specific to rework, I will always source it second-hand on eBay or Vinted. It’s really just endless scrolling! Otherwise, I will go to charity shops, car boot sales and flea markets to source interesting pieces. The more unusual the better. I like to work with vintage shoes and boots a lot, as the quality is usually better. I then take them to a local cobbler to be resoled or reinforced so that they last longer, as it can be challenging to find them in good condition.
Jorja Smith was recently spotted wearing your designs. How did that come about and how did it feel?
Aga Dziedzic, her stylist, reached out to me a while back. She wore a necklace for a Boiler Room appearance that I made and we have continued to work together on various bits and pieces ever since. We go back and forth, brainstorming ideas and sending moodboards, and I try to capture the mood or feeling that’s created within the moodboards through reworking or upcycling existing pieces and elevating them. It’s pretty surreal as Jorja is one of my favorite artists, so seeing her on stage wearing my designs makes me feel super proud.
You’re based in Bristol, would you say the city influences your work?
It’s had a huge influence on my work as it’s where I source a lot of the materials I use to create my pieces. It has also allowed me to collaborate with other creatives in the city, especially photographers.
If you were to stage a fashion show, what’s one song that would definitely be a part of the soundtrack?
Anything by Oklou, especially the song “God’s Chariot”. I love that song.
Who would be your dream celebrity to collaborate with in the future?
I’ve been lucky enough to collaborate with artists I could only dream of working with, but if I had to pick someone, I would probably say Lady Gaga. She is an absolute icon.
Do you have any words of advice for budding designers pursuing a slow fashion approach?
My advice would be not to be so critical of your own work. Enjoy the experimental process just as much as the finished outcome.
What’s next for you in the year ahead?
Currently, I’m working on a small collection of exciting pieces that will be going onto my website. They will include one-of-one reworked vintage perspex heels and accessories. I’m really just hoping to make more time to create one-of-one pieces and have fun with it.
