How London-Based Jeweler Emily Frances Barrett Reimagined Nike's Moon Shoe
The cult-loved kicks just got the ultimate upgrade.
In recent years, customization has become a major trend for fashion fans, adding trinkets to everything from shoes and bags to belts and sunglasses. As with all fashion trends, though, the result was a rise in more new products, plushies and charms that we probably didn’t need, instead of using what we already have access to.
One designer doing just that is Emily Frances Barrett, an artist and jewelry maker from London. Her process focuses on using “found” objects to customize and reimagine, and blending her self-taught expertise with the work experience she gained from Jake and Dinos Chapman.
Now, she’s teamed up with Nike to customize its ever-iconic Moon shoe and below, she takes us through her typical creative process, working with Nike and plans for the future.
Read on for the full interview.
Name: Emily Frances Barrett
Location: London
Occupation: Artist and Jeweler
Tell us a bit about what you do and how you got started.
I’ve always been a maker of things, even as a kid, I made jewelry with beads early on, as it was more accessible for me at that age. I later fell into model making, props and art fabrication for work, as I love detail and working at a smaller scale. After working for Jake and Dinos Chapman for 4 years, I gained an MA at Central Saint Martins, and later became an artist in residence at Sarabande, the Lee Alexander McQueen Foundation.
Here, I focused on developing my jewelry practice and finally having my own studio. Being self-taught, I didn’t know the rules, and so I leaned towards more unconventional materials and techniques. In the last few years, my practice has included making jewelry, accessories, objects, sculpture and collage; it’s this cross-pollination of mediums that informs the way I work.
Your creative process looks pretty intricate and unique. Where do you begin when starting a new project?
It’s quite an organic and instinctive process. I don’t have a set way of beginning; every time it’s different. Ideas come when you least expect them, but I’ve learnt over time how to catch, develop and edit them before deciding if they are good enough to bring into the world.
You recently partnered with Nike for its Moon Shoe. What interests you about that silhouette’s design in particular?
The Moon shoe is sleek and understated; it allows you to bring your own flavour and style to make it your own. The sole’s unusual history also really appeals to my own subversive and playful approach; finding inspiration in unexpected places is very much something that speaks to me.
What are some of your favorite pieces you’ve made so far?
The recent commission for Nike is definitely a recent favourite. I love responding to something that already exists, transforming it and conjuring up a whole new narrative. The ‘Future Found Moon Shoe Relic’ is the latest piece from a larger body of work where I’ve made objects such as vessels, a teapot, a tea cup and saucer, candlesticks and bottles using found objects in combination with stones, beads and freshwater pearls. I love the responses I get from these works; they leave so much room for the imagination, it’s as if they permit viewers to dream.
In the last few years, it feels like customization has become a big part of fashion and styling, with things like bag charms and shoe charms on the rise. Why do you think that is?
I think people are really broadening their idea of what adornment can be and are looking for new ways to express their taste and style. Traditional jewellery and accessories still have their place, but if re-thinking what customization and personalization can be allows people to express themselves in new and more innovative ways, then I’m all for it! Style is always evolving, and that’s exactly how it should be – progressive!
Are they just trends, or here to stay?
I pay no attention to trends am afraid, I’m more interested in if it looks good and if it works. Longevity is a testament to this!
What advice do you have for those who want to add a little more individuality to their outfits and styling choices? How do you set yourself apart?
Be true to yourself, find the confidence to believe in your own opinion and taste, no matter if it’s ‘cool’, ‘on trend or what anyone else thinks. Take inspiration from wherever you find it, even if it’s in the most weird places – let that inform your sense of style, and you’re much more likely to come up with something unique. If you just do that alone, you won’t need to set yourself apart; it’ll just happen.
Finally, what’s next for you in your line of work?
I’m thinking a lot about creating histories, rather than simply responding to them. I’m developing some new approaches to my jewelry-making, and these will likely extend to my artwork in time. I’m always looking forward with curiosity, experimenting and trying new things in the studio, it’s all unknown at this point, but that’s what drives me.
