The Top 7 Shows and Runway Trends at London Fashion Week FW22
Emerging designers like Nensi Dojaka and Ahluwalia stood out among the presentations.
London Fashion Week was a celebration of not only Fall/Winter 2022 fashion, but also the music, film, digital design and global heritage that define British culture. While last February saw a digital-only event, this season was re-energized with IRL showcases from Halpern, Yuhan Wang, Supriya Lele and more. Rich browns, hyper neons and creamy pastels fueled inspiration for colder months, while the likes of Richard Quinn took floral print to a new level. With LFW wrapped up, we’re highlighting the emerging designers and key trends to track for the FW22 season ahead.
For a closer look at LFW beauty aesthetics, check out these standout FW22 makeup and hair trends.
Did someone say Y2K hedonism? London-based label POSTER GIRL debuted its first catwalk collection defined by its pillars of sensuality, confidence and British craftsmanship. From après-ski wear to razor-sharp cashmere, the FW22 looks demonstrated how dressing for chilly climates can also be steamy. Known for its post-pandemic nightwear, the brand seamlessly blends seductive cutouts with faux Mongolian fur trimmed outerwear. The garments are complemented by POSTER GIRL’s first ski goggles-inspired eyewear, as well as a jewelry collaboration with French 3D print designer, Roussey.
Priya Ahluwalia, the creative director of Ahluwalia, explored the deep connection she has to both Bollywood and Nollywood in a joyous return to the IRL runway format. Informed by traditional Indian and Nigerian storytelling, the FW22 collection is a love letter to the films that informed her youth. Blending both menswear and womenswear for the first time, Ahluwalia boasts dance floor-ready pieces including a ruched dress in “bright green and psychedelic tie-dye”, halter-necks, miniskirts, 100% organic denim jeans, jackets and shirts and an array of playful, multicolored silhouettes.
Molly Goddard’s FW22 collection is a breath of fresh air amidst the re-emergence of Y2K. An ode to London-based Portobello and Camden Market in the late ’80s and ’90s, the collection takes an elevated approach to simplicity with a “here’s-what-I-found-down-the-market” energy. Dreamy sweaters are paired with fishtail taffeta dresses, overcoats with lace frill trims and army surplus-inspired jackets. Look to daytime tulle and uneven frills as trends that will inspire FW22 attire.
The FEBEN show took showgoers by surprise as the models stood ethereally in front of white canvas while the guests walked the runway around them. The FW22 collection titled “SKY” flirted between lightness and darkness as the creative director, Feben Vemmenby, explored self-understanding and personal growth. Key highlights of the collection include inky satin tailoring, a webbed skirt hand-embroidered with tubular glass beads and a variety of dark fall florals in the form of shirts, vests and dresses. Look to the brand’s use of dark brown across garments as a must-have FW22 staple.
Inspired by the Irish myth, Children of Lir, Simone Rocha presented a swan-like, fairytale FW22 collection. The emboldened outerwear was paired with woolen embroidery dubbed “Bloodline” with hand-stitched delicacy. The use of quilted blankets, bitter sequins and rich velvet further developed the fantasy. The garments were complemented by crystallized platform heels, hair clips and pearly jewelry. To get inspired by the FW22 collection, think Black Swan meets neo-punk.
The Roksanda FW22 show was all about embracing color and larger-than-life shapes. Showcased at Tate Britain, the show unveiled a collaboration with FILA at the intersection of activewear and luxury, including puffer jackets and voluminous dresses. In a first-of-its-kind metaverse twist, the brand also teamed up with London-based Institute of Digital Fashion to debut an NFT at the end of the runway show.
Having won the prestigious LVMH Prize and British Fashion Council’s Foundation Award for emerging talent last fall, Nensi Dojaka didn’t disappoint with her FW22 collection. As the leader in cutout aesthetics and stringy dresses, the brand allured showgoers with barely there dresses and a blend of creamy and somber colorways. The airy fabrics, sheer tights and revealing mesh beautifully encompass modern femininity which will be a key aesthetic for seasons to come.