Ahluwalia Brought Forgotten Cultural Voices to the Limelight for SS24
Including Baya Mahieddine, Madhubala and Marsha P. Johnson.
In Ahluwalia’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled “Acknowledgements,” Priya Ahluwalia embarked on a journey of creative rediscovery. Her research delved into various facets of history, spanning music, film, art, fashion and social justice.
Ahluwalia uncovered the works of creators and thinkers whose names are often overlooked and whose accomplishments are less recognized. This was particularly true for artists and creatives of color, who frequently suffer from cultural erasure. References included Baya Mahieddine, one of Algeria’s most celebrated artists, actress Madhubala, a Bollywood legend and the work of LGBTQIA+ liberation activist and drag queen Marsha P. Johnson.
WHERE:The runway show took place in London’s British Library, which houses one of the world’s most extensive research collections, boasting over 150 million distinct items encompassing every era of written civilization.
SEE: Illusion knitwear and tonal jacquard techniques were prominently featured in cardigans, tank tops and one-shoulder dresses, prompting guests to take a closer look and discover details they may have initially missed.
A recurring flower motif graced button-down shirts, knit separates, ruched mini-skirts and shorts. Furthermore, soft silk viscose dresses in various lengths, from short to mid-calf to floor-length, were embellished cowl neck gowns in striking burnt orange and red. Ahluwalia’s signature denim pieces showcased innovation, with the use of ISKO’s CTRL+Z fabric to create the flower motif on jeans and jackets.
Playful variations of the label’s signature Chelsea boots came in vibrant lime green, blue zebra patterns and classic tan. There were also floral embossed calf-height boots with wedge-shaped heels featuring the letter “A,” as well as lace-up leather mules in chartreuse, red and classic black.
TOUCH: The collection utilized no virgin cotton and relied on a minimum of 60% recycled materials, with the remaining portion comprising regenerated cellulose fibers. The range maintained the look and feel of traditional denim, underscoring Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to eco-friendly design and fair business practices.
HEAR: The soundtrack featured rhythmic drums and chants.
TASTE: Sunglasses, created in collaboration with Ace & Tate, included four frames inspired by Ahluwalia’s distinctive universe and patterns, complete with the brand’s signature “A” on the glasses hinges.
In case you missed it, Chopova Lowena’s SS24 was a love letter to angels, devils and skater boys.