Moschino's Milan Fashion Week Show Was Five Acts of Pure Camp Excellence
Collaborating with House friends: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand.
Since news of the departure of creative director Jeremy Scott, all eyes have been on Moschino to deliver its typical fashion week showcase at the Spring/Summer 2024 edition of Milan Fashion Week. Well, the Italian fashion house took things to the next level as it celebrated 40 years in business this season, bringing together four of its friends — Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand — for a five-act play that trod the line between fashion and performance.
Acting as a celebration of Franco Moschino’s greatest hits, the performance slash runway took inspiration from his most notable silhouettes from the ’80s and ’90s, with each of the House’s four collaborators responsible for presenting their own takes on the SS24 season.
Read on for Hypebae’s summary of Moschino SS24.
WHO: Saint Jhn and Nuria Ma were some of the few names that graced Moschino’s SS24 front row.
SEE: French stylist Cerf de Dudzeele kicked off Act One with an elevated offering of Moschino’s most timeless silhouettes, but with a twist. Pared-back suits and shirts were dressed up with bold jewelry and heart-shaped bags, while Karefa-Johnson’s Act Two drew inspiration from ’90s nostalgia. “I relied heavily on recreating and changing styles from the early ’90s shows to update silhouette and fabrication but still wanted that energy to peek through. Let’s call it NOWstalgia,” she explained. Act Three saw Liu showcasing romantic, ruched silhouettes in floaty fabrics with dainty design details, while Act Four was the epitome of “Loud Luxury,” courtesy of Katie Grand. Closing the show was a selection of charitable T-shirts made in collaboration with the Elton John AIDS Foundation.
TOUCH: A total mixture of fabrics and textures permeated Moschino’s SS24, from heavy-duty suiting and crisp shirts to dainty, swishy dresses and fringing. Chunky jewelry accessorized classic looks, while crocheted skirts, embellished beading and tie-dye color palettes injected a touch of playfulness.
HEAR: Centuries-old music soundtracked the beginning of Act One, followed Laura Marzadori’s violin rendition of “I Am What I Am,” paying homage to Moschino’s Fall/Winter 1986 fashion show for Act Five.
TASTE: It’s official. Quiet luxury is out and Succession-core is no more for SS24. Instead, we’re embracing our loudest, wildest selves and wearing our words on our sleeves (and our dresses and our skirts).