Our Favorite Shows From Men's Fashion Week SS27
From Prada’s skinny fits to Simone Rocha’s menswear debut.
Men’s fashion week is officially a wrap, kicking things off in Milan before heading to Paris for the Spring/Summer 2027 season amid World Cup mania, soaring temperatures and a healthy dose of fashion-induced delirium.
This season’s schedule was packed with familiar heavyweights and a handful of major debuts worth keeping tabs on. In Milan, Simone Rocha unveiled its first-ever menswear collection, putting a romantic spin on traditional tailoring. Over in Paris, Michael Rider presented his menswear debut for Celine, while Sarah Burton staged her inaugural men’s show for Givenchy.
Elsewhere, Hermès unveiled a studio-designed collection ahead of Grace Wales Bonner’s highly anticipated debut as creative director in January. And, naturally, all eyes remained fixed on Dior, where Jonathan Anderson’s third menswear outing for the House was always bound to create a buzz.
Football fever seeped into styling choices, after-hours glamor flooded our feeds and there were even a surprise cameo or two. Scroll on for our favorite shows of the Spring/Summer 2027 season.
Saul Nash
Saul Nash presented its “STANCE” collection in Milan, inside the Milanese Gymnastics Society Forza e Coraggio, in a unique exploration of masculinity, strength and desire. The London-based label used the sporting venue to anchor the movement-focused designs, which were engineered specifically to celebrate the male physique in motion. The show also featured a preview of the final collaborative SLNSH collection with lululemon ahead of its global release.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha introduced its first dedicated menswear runway presentation for the SS27 season. Staged at the historic Teatro della Pergola in Florence, the collection explored contemporary masculinities through a theatrical lens. The pieces blended structured tailoring with delicate elements like pearls, lace and fresh flowers. This was a total recontextualization of the traditional male wardrobe.
Prada
Prada SS27 said skinny silhouettes are so back. Designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the show was an exercise in precision and the absolute rejection of complication or excess. There was a focus on wardrobe staples such as denim, T-shirts and jean-jackets, juxtaposed with an edgier side through heavy-duty leather, cropped tailoring and everything skinny-fit. While this was a men’s collection, the runway opened with a pigtailed Julia Nobis in fitted white denim and an oversized blazer, followed by her doppelganger male, also in pigtails, but in full black leather. Prada, you never miss.
Saint Laurent
Creative director Anthony Vaccarello once again brought his razor-sharp tailoring to Saint Laurent. The SS27 collection was all about the luxury of absence, with nods to figures whose restraint and omission were a form of expression, citing the fictional Mr. Ripley in the show notes. Models moved through clouds of smoke in looks that ranged from high-gloss golden trenches and slim-fit pants to brightly colored athletic blouson jackets. Elsewhere, footwear was sculpted and sheer, reminiscent of the current women’s jelly-shoe trend, but elevated into an evening shoe.
Louis Vuitton
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams transformed the runway into a surf-inspired spectacle, framing the collection around what he called “the dandy experience.” Models emerged from a huge wave set as the designer fused his signature relaxed tailoring with the laid-back codes of surf culture. Weathered suiting and wetsuit references appeared alongside sea-inspired embellishments and skate culture codes, bringing both the city and shore together in one.
Ami Paris
AMI Paris explored the classic Parisian archetype, channeling the characters you might find walking around the city’s streets. With a focus on the emotional connection we have to certain clothing, the label took inspiration from cherished items such as a childhood T-shirt or borrowed suit. As usual, creative director Alexandre Mattiussi explored the blurring lines between masculine and feminine, delivering a wardrobe that oozed ease.
Dior
Jonathan Anderson did it again, delivering a masterclass in character dressing for the Dior men’s showcase. This time, it was an elevated version of what might have been a fancy house party. Models slouched down the catwalk with loosened ties, ripped jeans and trailing dressing gowns, reminiscent of morning-after chaos with a hint of elegance. Draping, fraying and clashing, this was posh pajama party meets formal French tailoring.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens introduced an adidas collaboration for its SS27 showcase, already making the rounds on social media. The sportswear brand brought its technical proficiency to sneakers, inflated jackets and shorts with interior fans to create a personal air conditioning system. Owens was heatwave-ready with this one.
Acne Studios
Acne Studios reimagined the office wardrobe as a playful collision of personalities, eras and dress codes. Mixing corporate staples with rock’n'roll references and signature denim, the collection featured disrupted tailoring, leather jackets instead of suits and a palette spanning crisp whites to gelato-inspired pinks and pistachios. The lineup transformed traditional markers of professionalism into an expressive, individualistic uniform that extends far beyond the confines of the workplace. This is not office-core as you know it.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s SS27 show was a masterclass in color, flowing texture and femininity for men. Sandy tones melted into ocean blues and sunset hues as short-shorts were paired with long flowing trenches and sheer shirts. Julian Klausner was absolutely prepared for the scorching Parisian heatwave with this level of barely-there layering. While this was Klausner’s third menswear show for the House since taking over as creative director, his previous work in the womenswear department proved a strong advantage as many menswear designers continue to lean into softer, more delicate silhouettes. Throughout the collection, you could see the references exploring everything from lingerie and backless halter-tops to ballet shoes. This was an enchanting showcase.
Doublet
Doublet took us for a day in the life with its latest collection. Exploring the future of materials, whether that be air, wood or even bananas, the label shone a light on how our resource use will inevitably have to change in the near future, becoming our new everyday norm. No matter how futuristic this sounds now, the new materials will still follow us through our mundane daily activities, chosen in the morning half-asleep, following us to work and ending up thrown over a chair at night. The show notes shared, “Perhaps the future is not something grand and far away, but something that quietly blends into our everyday lives before we even notice.”
Willy Chavarria
Willy Chavarria unveiled the “Comunión” collection, a reflection on community, heritage and the strength found in togetherness during turbulent times. The show was rooted in the idea that beauty becomes more powerful when shared, drawing on intimate memories of the home like faded kitchen walls, floral textiles and inherited objects. The lineup spanned sculptural shift dresses, sheer outerwear, tailored suiting, relaxed schoolboy-inspired pairings and expanded womenswear silhouettes that balanced sensuality and strength. The collection also debuted the first chapter of a collaboration with UGG, reworking archival-inspired silhouettes like boots and slippers through Chavarria’s lens of “fierce and friendly” design. Oh, and Romeo Beckham made an appearance on the runway too.
Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO
Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO presented “Endless Summer” with a utilitarian showcase backed by glittering silver foil. The show notes kept it simple, just sharing a poem centered around the phrase “I hate summer.” Surprising, yes, relatable, perhaps? With the lingering heatwave, many of us may be feeling this way now. The brand therefore proposes a wardrobe built to last, built to layer and blending comfort with a subdued elegance.
In other news, take a closer look at Dua Lipa’s custom Chanel wedding dress designed by Matthieu Blazy.
