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Avavav Turns Down the Volume for SS27

Stepping away from viral moments and putting the clothes back at the center.

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Avavav Turns Down the Volume for SS27

Stepping away from viral moments and putting the clothes back at the center.

Avavav is turning the volume down. After seasons of headline-making runway shows and viral fashion moments (including models falling on the runway and a trash-covered catwalk), creative director Beate Skonare Karlsson stepped away from the noise for Spring/Summer 2027, putting the clothes back at the center of the story.

Rather than building another collection around a big concept or narrative, Karlsson treated SS27 as an exercise in form. She describes Avavav as an ever-growing family of figurines, with each collection adding new characters while allowing familiar ones to evolve.

“I’m not interested in erasing everything and starting over every six months,” Karlsson explained. “I want to find forms that feel like they belong to us, then let them evolve and introduce new ones around them.”

That approach came through in the silhouettes. Familiar garment-making techniques were exaggerated into sculptural shapes, with pleating pushed to extremes. A tubular pleated skirt stretched and contracted like a slinky, while another top created an exaggerated, cartoon-like A-line around the torso. The brand’s larva bag also got a new life, transforming into skirt silhouettes, while the recurring four-finger motif appeared throughout pockets and garment constructions. The result felt less like a new Avavav “universe” and more like another chapter in one already taking shape.

Even the accompanying lookbook follows suit, stripping away the spectacle to present the clothes almost like sculptures in a gallery. For SS27, Avavav wasn’t trying to create another viral moment. It was simply adding to the collection of characters it’s already been building.

Check out some of the looks above and head to the brand’s website for more.

For more from Paris Fashion Week, check out some of our favorite shows.

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