The Biggest Runway Trends from Fashion Week SS27
From bumsters and bras out to sex-positive slogans.
The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion month is nearing an end, with New York, London and Milan already gone and Paris just kicking off. From major designers to fashion debuts, a few things have stood out this season.
In New York and London, we saw ultra-low-rise bumsters returning, with the crack a new accessory for provocation. While we initially saw evidence of this last season, SS27 has proved the trend is officially in full swing, and maybe more wearable than you first thought, spotted on the catwalk at Mowalola, Eckhaus Latta, 7 For All Mankind and Francesca Lake, among others (for both men and women).
Elsewhere, while the world seems to be in an “eat the rich” mood, many designers opted for “feed the rich” with collections that looked to aristocracy, Upper East Side prep and high-society socialites. Simone Rocha brought back early 2000s Gossip Girl fashion, while Conner Ives was the ultimate New York rich kid and London emerging designer Gui Rosa’s collection was all about upper-class parties. Whether it’s celebration or satire is to be determined, but it’s an interesting shift from last season, where runways seemed to fully lean into mess, chaos and an appearance of poverty.
Ahead, we take a look at the biggest runway trends spotted this season so far, from bumsters to rich kids and sex positive slogans to peekaboo bras.
Ultra-Low-Rise Bumsters
While the daring, super-low silhouette popularized in the early 2000s has been slowly making its way back, featured last season at McQueen, this season felt like the official homecoming of the trend. In New York, cracks were out at Eckhaus Latta, Private Policy and 7 For All Mankind, while in London, Mowalola pushed it even further.
Peekaboo Bras
From clothes falling off in an unintentional way last season, this season we have the intentional peekaboo bra. More than just the lingerie-as-outerwear trend, we’re talking clothes specifically designed to show off what’s underneath. LaQuan Smith’s open shirts revealed brightly colored structured bras that stole the show, while 7 For All Mankind had scoop-neck tops with necklines so low they hit below the bust, allowing the bra to do all the talking.
Flouncing Fringe
Fringe has fully taken over this season, covering everything from skirts and dresses to bags and belts. KEBURIA leaned in totally with pieces that danced down the runway, including a midi skirt reminiscent of hay alongside a collection of slouchy hobo bags covered in the effect. Conner Ives put fringe to a more versatile use by adding it to belts so that you can turn any bottoms into the dynamic design, while Christian Cowan made it more offbeat by adding fringing in asymmetrical layers to dresses.
Sex Positive Slogans
This season it was all about sex positivity and embracing sexuality without shame. We saw lingerie label R&M Leathers making its fashion week debut with a Pornhub collaboration, which was featured on a slogan tee just for that extra level of provocation. Elsewhere, Natasha Zinko’s SS27 show partnered with OnlyFans in a nod to surveillance, with slogan undies emblazoned with the playful “Pay Per View,” while Geordie Campbell was all about embracing queerness and featured tanks with the words “I want your sex” printed on the back.
Ultra High and Ultra Cinched
While we’ve seen the ultra-low-rise bumsters at one end of the spectrum, it seems this season we’re also seeing the super high-waisted silhouette cinching in waists and accentuating hips. From Conner Ives’ ribcage-skimming blue capris to Christian Cowan’s high-waist corset, it’s all about the body.
The Rich Girl
This season, there seems to be a fascination with the rich. From Simone Rocha’s Upper East Side-inspired looks with sweater vests reminiscent of the early 2000s Gossip Girl era, to Conner Ives‘ preppy silhouettes and emerging label Gui Rosa’s collection titled “Hi, Society,” exploring debutante balls and the socialites you might find out in the big city.
All Purple Everything
While a royal purple hue started emerging last season, for SS27, it wasn’t just a pop; it was a full takeover. At AGRO Studio, almost every single look on the runway featured the color in some form, while many looks were simply full monochrome purple. Gucci sent a floor-length gown down the runway in the color, while Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta featured a selection of looks in the regal color. Ester Manas also gave the once-hated hue a significant place on the runway, on everything from slip dresses to bodysuits and tanks. One thing is for sure: this season, there’s going to be some purple in your wardrobe.
Tutus
Across all the major cities, we saw a bouncing ballerina silhouette. Tulle tutu skirts appeared at AGRO Studio in huge sizes, while Mithridate featured a mini pink version (perhaps the most similar to a ballet one) and in Paris, Matières Fécales sent a khaki iteration with a distressed, asymmetric hem down its now-viral runway showcase.
