Our Favorite Shows of Paris Fashion Week SS27
From color-changing dresses at Anrealage to book drops at Valentino.
The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion circuit reaches its grand finale in the city of love with Paris Fashion Week, featuring an impressive 67 shows and 34 presentations. Show guests and fashion fans alike have been watching as the city’s luxury houses stage immersive showcases, while emerging brands open showrooms and host re-sees across town.
This season brings two debuts, from Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, along with Anthony Vaccarello’s final show for Saint Laurent after a decade as the house’s creative lead. Sacai, Ester Manas and Christopher Esber are back on the schedule, as is Valentino, which showed in Rome for Fall/Winter 2026.
The week was already off to an incredible start thanks to Matières Fécales, who held the first-ever show at Place de la République, and Anrealage unveiling its 25th anniversary collection, complete with electronic-paper scales that shift in color and hue. Elsewhere, Glenn Martens has brought Maison Margiela back to the calendar, now that he’s focused solely on the house after leaving Diesel.
Continue reading for our favorite shows from PFW SS27, and before you go, catch up on our Milan Fashion Week recap.
Matières Fécales
For SS27, Matières Fécales became the first-ever brand to host a runway show at Place de la République, and staged it as a tribute to immigrants and those pushed to the margins. Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose followed last season’s critique of the ultra-wealthy with “Ninety Nine Percent,” a collection presented on 99 models of color, with many of the designers’ loved ones among the cast. Bhaskaran’s childhood in Montreal’s low-income housing shaped much of the collection. The looks went from pristine white tailoring and a heeled flip-flop created with Christian Louboutin to military-leaning pieces with a rough punk edge. In the closing moment, models carried eerily realistic billionaire figures around the monument.
Maison Margiela
Just a week after bowing out of Diesel with his final Milan show, Glenn Martens returned his full focus to Maison Margiela, applying the house’s love of deconstruction to the everyday rituals of home life. The brand hinted at the direction days earlier with a clip of a silver teapot being squashed, and that same flattened silver later appeared across a simple white dress as one of the season’s standout pieces. Womenswear was where the collection really came alive, with skirts and dresses in glossy retro florals that could have been lifted straight off a ’70s dining table. Later looks split open at the chest to show fitted neutral layers beneath, while one revealed a cluster of silver blooms instead.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello signed off from Saint Laurent in a blaze of gold, fitting for a house whose founder treasured the shade above almost any other. Rather than using it as a finishing touch, Vaccarello coated his SS27 looks in it entirely, running it through lamé, brocade, lace and even latex brushed with gold leaf. During the final walk, Charlotte Gainsbourg sang to the crowd, repeating the line: “You are so much, Yves Saint Laurent.” The showcase, under the lights of the Eiffel Tower, was attended by Rosé, Zoë Kravitz, Hailey Bieber and more.
Anrealage
Always one to use technology in truly creative ways, Kunihiko Morinaga marked Anrealage’s 25th Paris show with “SKIN,” a collection featuring LED digital skins and electronic-paper scales that change color and hue. The show began with sleek all-in-one bodysuits and built toward increasingly complex pieces patched together from washi, Ultrasuede scales and peeling sequins. Next came six armor-like evening dresses, each covered in thousands of E Ink scales that flickered through bursts of color before fading to gray.
Courrèges
For his debut show as Courrèges’ creative director, Drew Henry focused on the joy of dressing with a dopamine-inducing SS27 collection. It was a bold beginning to the brand’s new chapter; it felt loose and trippy, taking the brand’s space-age heritage somewhere far more carefree. There were tall hats, undone neon belts, colorful bodysuits, A-line dresses and even vinyl outerwear. It was a debut with a real sense of humor, and one that has us curious to see where he takes things next.
Torishéju
Torishéju Dumi looked to ancient Rome for SS27, borrowing Juvenal’s idea of bread and circuses, the notion that a well-fed and well-entertained public stops asking questions. The collection styling was a true standout: silk baseball caps doubled up, a bevy of belts became a loose top and a blazer was stitched with hundreds of metal nails. Dumi once again sourced from Nike‘s surplus stock, breaking it down to its raw materials and building fresh fabrics from scratch, while Byredo and Kangol joined as partners.
Acne Studios
Acne Studios set denim on a rollercoaster collision course with centuries-old dress codes for SS27, taking cues from the ’80s New Romantic scene and the dandyish swagger of Adam Ant. Artist Faig Ahmed’s warped rugs lined the space as models walked out in looks where heirloom fabrics met everyday staples. As for the kicks and accessories, satin heels, snake-inlaid cowboy boots and Camero bags with ornate frame-like buckles finished things off in suitably ’80s fashion.
AWGE
A$AP Rocky caught Paris off guard with a surprise runway show for AWGE, the collective-built label he creatively directs, which this season takes on a new meaning as “Anti-War Global Economics.” The name acts as a lens on the power structures shaping the world right now, and Rocky translated that into a wardrobe that blends streetwear staples with military references. On the footwear front, his ongoing PUMA partnership brought the debut of unreleased Straycat sneakers alongside a navy Puma Suede. The show finished in the Al Accor stadium, where he delivered a full concert. A true fashion killa.
Carven
Kai Nesselrath’s first collection as Carven‘s creative director was shaped by long hours spent in the house archive, studying the hands-on approach of its founder, Madame Carven. He was inspired by her confidence and craft, sharing in the show notes, “What spoke to me most was Marie-Louise herself: this idea of a doer… a woman who works with her hands.” Nesselrath brought this to life through small vintage details and sculpted proportions, even tucking pencils like the one included in the show’s invitation into the models’ pockets and behind their ears.
Victoria Beckham
Vivienne Westwood
Lacoste
Miu Miu
Valentino
LOEWE
For SS27, LOEWE’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez proposed a wardrobe rooted in the tension between American pragmatism and Spanish drama. Familiar staples were reworked with playful twists, from backwards-cut polos and silk anoraks to chiffon basketball jersey-inspired dresses and softened boat shoes. Spanish Baroque influences appeared through painterly sashes, sun-bleached color and floral motifs, while archival house codes were refreshed through lightweight leather and new iterations of the Pasito and Puzzle bags. Balancing heritage with ease and wearability, the collection ultimately centred on clothes designed to move with the body and become part of the wearer’s own story, with plenty of bold hues to add that signature sense of play.
Mugler
For Mugler, Miguel Castro Freitas offered an erotic exploration of the relationship between human desire and the natural world. Inspired by Thierry Mugler’s avant-garde vision, the collection fused flora and fauna with theatrical silhouettes, from Art Nouveau-inspired tailoring and sculpted Mikado silk to feline pantaboots and a moss-like leather gown. Feathers, synthetic hair, translucent flowers and iridescent embellishments blurred the line between the beastly and the ethereal, while an array of specialist artisans brought the collection’s surreal textures to life.
