Our Favorite Shows of Paris Fashion Week SS27, So Far
From Anrealage’s color-shifting 25th anniversary collection to Matières Fécales’ historic runway at Place de la République.
The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion circuit reaches its grand finale in the city of love, with Paris Fashion Week bringing 67 shows and 34 presentations to the calendar. Show guests and fashion fans alike will be watching as the city’s luxury houses stage immersive showcases while emerging brands open up their showrooms and host re-sees across town.
This season brings two debuts, from Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, along with Anthony Vaccarello’s final show for Saint Laurent after a decade as the house’s creative lead. Sacai, Ester Manas and Christopher Esber are back on the schedule, as is Valentino, which showed in Rome for Fall/Winter 2026.
The week is already off to an incredible start, with Matières Fécales holding the first-ever show at Place de la République, and Anrealage unveiling its 25th anniversary collection, complete with electronic-paper scales that shift in color and hue. Elsewhere, Glenn Martens has brought Maison Margiela back to the calendar, now that he’s focused solely on the house after leaving Diesel.
Continue reading for our favorite shows from PFW SS27, and before you go, catch up on our Milan Fashion Week recap.
Matières Fécales
For SS27, Matières Fécales became the first-ever brand to host a runway show at Place de la République, and staged it as a tribute to immigrants and those pushed to the margins. Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose followed last season’s critique of the ultra-wealthy with “Ninety Nine Percent,” a collection presented on 99 models of color, with many of the designers’ loved ones among the cast. Bhaskaran’s childhood in Montreal’s low-income housing shaped much of the collection. The looks went from pristine white tailoring and a heeled flip-flop created with Christian Louboutin to military-leaning pieces with a rough punk edge. In the closing moment, models carried eerily realistic billionaire figures around the monument.
Maison Margiela
Just a week after bowing out of Diesel with his final Milan show, Glenn Martens returned his full focus to Maison Margiela, applying the house’s love of deconstruction to the everyday rituals of home life. The brand hinted at the direction days earlier with a clip of a silver teapot being squashed, and that same flattened silver later appeared across a simple white dress as one of the season’s standout pieces. Womenswear was where the collection really came alive, with skirts and dresses in glossy retro florals that could have been lifted straight off a ’70s dining table. Later looks split open at the chest to show fitted neutral layers beneath, while one revealed a cluster of silver blooms instead.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello signed off from Saint Laurent in a blaze of gold, fitting for a house whose founder treasured the shade above almost any other. Rather than using it as a finishing touch, Vaccarello coated his SS27 looks in it entirely, running it through lamé, brocade, lace and even latex brushed with gold leaf. During the final walk, Charlotte Gainsbourg sang to the crowd, repeating the line: “You are so much Yves Saint Laurent.” The showcase, under the lights of the Eiffel Tower, was attended by Rosé, Zoë Kravitz, Hailey Bieber and more.
Anrealage
Always one to use technology in truly creative ways, Kunihiko Morinaga marked Anrealage’s 25th Paris show with “SKIN,” a collection featuring LED digital skins and electronic-paper scales that change color and hue. The show began with sleek all-in-one bodysuits and built toward increasingly complex pieces patched together from washi, Ultrasuede scales and peeling sequins. Next came six armor-like evening dresses, each covered in thousands of E Ink scales that flickered through bursts of color before fading to gray.
