Chemena Kamali Follows Her Obsessions for Chloé SS27
Turning to the archives, this was a collection built from memories, but not trapped by them.
Chloé is looking back at everything it loves. For Spring/Summer 2027, creative director Chemena Kamali turned her attention to the house’s archives, following a series of personal “obsessions” to create a collection that felt nostalgic without simply looking backwards.
Rather than recreating Chloé classics, Kamali explored the emotions behind them. The house’s early “robes de jeunes filles,” known for their intricate broderie anglaise, were reworked through precise 19th-century threadwork across everything from featherweight organza to crisp cotton.
Elsewhere, 1960s three-dimensional floral embroidery brought depth and texture to the collection, balancing couture-level craftsmanship with an intentionally youthful ease. Silhouettes were often built from the neckline down, with heart-shaped, square and V-neck shapes anchoring the looks.
Outerwear got its own archival treatment. ’70s fishermen’s coats, capes and hats were layered with smoky transparent vinyl, creating sharp, graphic silhouettes. Kamali also revisited the house’s 1972 “Noel” suit, transforming the scalloped-edge tuxedo into a celebration of women in menswear. And of course, there’s lingerie. Rather than simply letting delicate lace peek through, Kamali sliced it apart and reconstructed it into barely-there romantic harnesses, turning one of Chloé’s most enduring codes into something entirely new.
This was a collection built from memories, but not trapped by them. For Kamali, SS27 was less about preserving Chloé’s past than following what she loves about it, wherever that obsession takes her.
Check out some of the looks above and head to the brand’s website for more.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, check out our favorite SS27 shows.
