After 10 Years at the Helm, Anthony Vaccarello Bathes Saint Laurent in a Sea of Gold
With the burnished hue enveloping the collection under the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower.
Last night Anthony Vaccarello presented one of his best shows for Saint Laurent since taking the role as creative director exactly 10 years ago. Bathed in a sea of shimmering gold, Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2027 showcase only made the rumors of his departure feel that much more likely, because this is how you go out with a bang.
For SS27, the designer took the house’s longstanding love of the color and turned it into an entire world, covering everything from sharp tailoring to flowing eveningwear in shades of deep, burnished and Byzantine hues.
Gold has always held a special place at the house, with Yves Saint Laurent himself once describing it as “the color of the sun.” Vaccarello took that idea and ran with it, exploring how the metallic shade can completely transform whatever it touches. Rather than using gold as an accent, he let it envelop the collection from head to toe.
The designer revisited some of the house’s most recognizable archetypes, including trenches, blouses and wrap skirts, alongside his own signatures: strong-shouldered coats, oversized blousons and precise short suits finished with swathes of fur. The effect changed with every fabric. Lamé, organza, lace, brocade, jacquard and even latex coated in gold leaf gave the color a constantly shifting quality, moving between soft, sculptural and almost liquid.
But as the show came to a close, the gold disappeared. Black velvet suits and cloud-like evening dresses absorbed the light while Charlotte Gainsbourg sang to the crowd, repeating the line: “You are so much, Yves Saint Laurent.” Under the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vacarello proved once again that Saint Laurent is the true gold standard. While we may not be ready to say farewell, for now we can say thank you.
Check out some of the looks above and head to the brand’s website for more.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, check out some of our favorite shows.
