Moncler Genius Debuts Collabs With Richard Quinn & JW Anderson at Milan Fashion Week FW20
Also including Craig Green, 1017 ALYX 9SM, fragment design, RIMOWA and more.
Following Jil Sander and Gucci‘s Fall/Winter 2020 shows, Moncler Genius concluded the first day of Milan Fashion Week with a bang. The luxury label unveiled its 2020 lineup earlier this month announcing its collaborations with 12 design partners.
Participating brands include JW Anderson, Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, 1017 ALYX 9SM, fragment design, RIMOWA, Poldo Dog Couture and MATE.BIKE. The presentation was held in a massive warehouse that was transformed into an incredible fashion theme park where designers were able to showcase their creations on the runway throughout the space.
JW Anderson’s show presented outfits from Genius Collection 1, featuring a diverse color palette incorporated onto a selection of silhouettes. Anderson spoke with Vogue about the latest range: “The idea is that it is an inflated archive. So we have used the Moncler technique to inflate pieces we have done in the past, like the hat from the Riviera collection (SS15 womenswear) or the ruffled men’s short with the knee-high boot (FW14 menswear).”
Veronica Leoni and Sergio Zambon conceptualized the latest Moncler 1952 range and took the idea of “imagining an army of women on a quest for a lost paradise” for the collection. Neutral tones and pops of vibrant colors were found throughout the garments along with bold prints and textures.
Sandro Mandrino, head of design for Moncler Grenoble, took skiwear to the next level. With high-end sportswear as his forte, Mandrino’s goal for the line was to elevate the designs, but to also provide quality and performance. “I had in mind this image of the white of the snow that gets progressively stained by color as graffiti expand everywhere,” he told Moncler.
London-born designer Craig Green pushed simplicity to the extreme. It was all about protection and functionality for his Genius range where volume and 3D silhouettes dominated the unconventional runway.
Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM presented an innovative way of showcasing his latest designs this season. Williams told Vogue: “They’re inkjet printers and the idea is that we are printing the lookbook live during the event.” Highlight pieces include garment-dyed puffers featuring Williams’ signature clunky hardware fastenings. According to Vogue, the majority of the pieces were fabricated from the “ECONYL® recycled fishing line-derived fabric pioneered by Issey Miyake.”
For his fourth season with Moncler, Hiroshi Fujiwara of fragment design introduced a futuristic show featuring outerwear such as puffers, coats, matte down jackets and leather jackets designed in his signature graphics.
Richard Quinn focused on the theme of the ’60s this season but with a space-age twist. Models walked down the runway sporting Quinn’s bold signature prints paired with over-the-top luxe headpieces.
Adorable dogs made their special Fashion Week cameo dressed in mini Moncler puffer jackets created in collaboration with Poldo Dog Couture.
As for RIMOWA’s “Reflection” collection, items in the range – like this limited-edition suitcase featuring a customizable LED screen – presented a “bold new travel concept” involving new innovations and technologies.
The Moncler Genius exhibition will be open to the public starting on February 23 in Milan and pieces from each collaboration are expected to be drop later this year.
Moncler Genius 2020
Viale Molise 70
Milan, Italy 20137