5 Runway Trends We Spotted at Copenhagen Fashion Week FW23
From Y2K grunge to relaxed suiting.
The Fall/Winter 2023 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week, marking the first season to require all brands to meet a minimum of 18 sustainability requirements, featured a range of both emerging designers and mainstays, offering a peek into the trends of the upcoming season.
With presentations from Copenhagen staples Holzweiler and Stine Goya, to rising names like A. Roege Hove and P.L.N., we’ve gathered five key trends to look forward to for FW23. Designers looked to the beauty of nature and Mother Earth for their latest collections, while layering remains key to building our wardrobes for the colder days. Elsewhere, creatives continued to take inspiration from the Y2K era, presenting grunge looks while touching on the ’00s nostalgia.
Scroll down below to see the five trends Hypebae spotted at CPHFW. While you’re here, see the seven emerging designers from the week that you should know about.
Inspired by Nature
Holzweiler, Stine Goya, Iso.poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen
There’s nothing as timeless as Mother Earth. Nature served as inspiration for multiple runways this season at CPHFW, with Holzweiler taking a deep dive under the sea for seaweed-inspired handbags while white coral installations were seen on the catwalk. Meanwhile, Stine Goya looked to the freezing winter weather, showcasing icy, snowy looks on a runway decorated with ice blue columns. For his label ISO.Poetism, rising designer Tobias Birk Nielsen had stones and rocks hanging on ropes with the inspiration further seen on tie-dyed garments.
Relaxed Suiting
Selam Fessahaye, Holzweiler, The Garment
Moving on from the sweats and loungewear from the days of the pandemic, the fashion world is looking towards more optimistic dressing with vibrant colors and prints. Relaxed suiting remains a staple, whether it be minimalist Scandi-chic designs from Holzweiler and The Garment or bold prints from labels like Selam Fessahaye.
Layers on Layers
Holzweiler, A. Roege Hove, Baum Und Pferdgarten
The fall and winter seasons call for layers, as spotted on Holzweiler’s runway with tonal knit sweaters and cardigans worn atop another. A. Roege Hove also showcased a slew of layered outfits with the designer’s signature ribbed knits, while Baum Und Pferdgarten played around with check prints in its FW23 collection.
Y2K Grunge
Wood Wood, (di)vision, P.l.n.
Y2K continues to reign supreme, especially among the Gen Z demographic. Wood Wood, under the direction of its new designers Dominic Huckbody (Burberry and Martine Rose alum) and Cecilie Engberg (formerly at Balenciaga), featured midi-length denim skirts splattered with paint, pairing the piece with boots, a zip-up hoodie and a coat. At (di)vision, guests were invited to a post-rave scene with models walking in legwarmers, striped skirts, cropped graphic tees and more. Elsewhere, P.L.N. showcased leather separates with nylon legwarmers complete with cord fastening.
Fringe Play
P.l.n., Holzweiler, Wood Wood
We’re expecting the FW23 season to be a time to play around with silhouettes and textures, with one of the spotted trends including fringe details on anywhere from tops and outerwear to accessories.
