The "Fempire" Strikes Back at Collina Strada's FW25 Show
The brand crafted a matriarchal world where swirled braided crowns and crimped horns adorn the heads of all who dwell within.
For Collina Strada (and many others), we would be far better off if women ran the show. The brand’s Fall/Winter 2025 NYFW show addressed the somewhat dire state of the world, offering a glimpse into a not-so-distant future where femininity takes control. Designer Hillary Taymour invited the audience to imagine a “fempire” reshaped by a different kind of leadership and perspective. Instead of bending to regressive ideas, she implores us to keep challenging them.
On the runway, spectators viewed repurposed wedding gowns, oversized bug-eye sunglasses and garments that evoked the toughness of tactical gear — a visual reminder that the battle for safety and equality is far from over for everyone.
For the models’ glam, makeup artist Dick Page created four distinct looks. First, a cheetah print pattern was painted across the models’ faces, giving the illusion of cheetah skin breaking through their own. Next, “divine light” was achieved using Ilia’s new “Eye Stylus” Eyeshadow Stick in a shimmering golden hue, applied not to the eyelids, but along the bridge of the nose, creating an ethereal glow. Lastly, the “patina” and “vignette” looks featured soft baby blue and muted black eyeshadows, painted on in a similar fashion, adding depth and drama to the face.
Mustafa Yanaz led the hair team, approaching the look with spontaneity rooted in feeling rather than a single reference. “For this show, the hair wasn’t about a singular inspiration but a feeling — something that complements the energy of Collina Strada’s collection. I wanted to create styles that feel organic to the world the clothes live in,” he said in a press statement. “Each look was unique yet tied together by texture, movement and an undone, punk-inspired feel.” Two hairstyles graced the runway — a long, braided look that spiraled into a swirl near the forehead and a makeshift “horn” created by crimping strands.
To prep, Yanaz used Bumble & Bumble’s “Invisible” Oil Primer to protect the hair, followed by the brand’s “Brilliantine” Shine Styling Cream. After each “horn” was crimped, the hairstylist spritzed the “Spray de Mode” Flexible Hold Hairspray to hold the hair in place. “Fashion and hair go hand in hand and for me, it’s always about making sure the two speak the same language.”
For more fashion week coverage, check out our favorite looks from Couture Week Spring/Summer 2025.
