How to Break Into the Fashion Week Circuit As An Emerging Designer
Just in time for Fashion Week, Hypebae chats with seven leading designers about pulling off their first runway show.
Welcome to Hypebae’s new advice column, Field Notes. This series will provide you with everything you need to know about tapping into your dream industry. Whether you’re an emerging designer, stylist, photographer or simply creatively inclined and seeking to make your side hustle your main gig, Field Notes is for you. Stay tuned monthly as journalist Gigi Fong provides exclusive access to the creatives leading your field, their essential advice and words of encouragement for your next era.
Everyone wants a seat at Fashion Week — but what about securing your very own show? The “how-to’s” of the fashion industry are generally gatekept amongst the industry’s elite. But much like our annoyance with the lack of inclusivity in creative director roles, it’s time to spill tea on the real: how to break into the fashion week circuit.
From Copenhagen to Paris, hundreds of designers enter their new collections, seeking to be included on the official Fashion Week calendar. But what do you do when you have to piece together a team with no budget? For creative directors like Jane Wade and Tolu Coker, sourcing grants and the resources of creative agencies helped tremendously. As designer Gabe Gordon told us, “Everyone says it’s hard – but it’s harder than hard,” so remaining realistic and relying on your support system is a must.
“Everyone says it’s hard – but it’s harder than hard -Gabe Gordon”
If your creativity taps your heritage, prepare for niche challenges, too. Abigail Ajobi and Coker both debuted at Fashion Week with collections inspired by their heritage. As they’ll share in the interview, protecting your mental health is non-negotiable and those ancestral practices? They’ll ground you in ways you’d never anticipate.
Elsewhere, emerging designers Marie Lueder, Kasia Kucharska and Sam Finger are throwing out the rulebook, using guerilla marketing and pushing through the chaos that Fashion Week never fails to bring.
Keep reading for the full interview as we discuss landing a spot on the official calendar, building a team, protecting your mental health and overall, knowing when you’re ready.
How did you know you were ready to do your first brand presentation/runway?
Gordon: I have always wanted to present a collection through the runway, but it felt impossible without the proper brand infrastructure that I have now (not that there is much of that yet).
Finger: I was tired of working for other people. But to be real, I don’t know if I knew I was ready, honestly, I was down and out with just enough cash to scrap together a show. It was now or never.
Ajobi: I started my business during the 2020 lockdown so as soon as things started to safely open it felt like the next natural progression.
Wade: I felt an undeniable passion and vision for my collection, but also a sense of being cast out — like the odd one out in corporate fashion structures. That pushed me to create my own space rather than wait for permission.
What’s one thing you know now that you didn’t know before unveiling your first runway collection?
Gordon: Everyone says it’s hard, but it’s harder than hard
Ajobi: Owning a fashion brand is more business than fashion.
Finger: The brand is an extension of me and has helped me find myself and my authenticity.
Wade: Unexpected challenges arise and being flexible is key.
Leuder: To not try to do everything myself.
Coker: I would change the pace. I would give people more space to breathe.
Kucharska: I knew it would be intense work to bring everything together and it was indeed. What surprised me was that I could enjoy it despite the workload.
How do you prioritize mental health leading into fashion week? Any tips?
Gordon: By remembering to take my antidepressants.
Ajobi: Praying, managing my environment and planning effectively to reduce last-minute angst.
Finger: I’m not sure I’m very good at prioritizing my mental health… sometimes the meltdowns get you to success.
Wade: I schedule regular breaks, practice mindfulness and ensure I have a support system to stay grounded.
Coker: That’s an ongoing conversation. I don’t quite have the answer yet, but I’m in the process.
Kucharska: I just push through, to be honest. I’m super excited and focused, even obsessed to see everything come together towards the end, I didn’t experience negative stress.
What’s one piece of advice you could share about building your dream team within budget?
Gordon: It’s fun to work with like-minded creatives. Every role and part of the process is incredibly important.
Ajobi: Understand what your personal strengths and weaknesses are to establish what areas you need help in. Then, (especially as you’re starting out) consider collaboration (where it aligns) and leverage your network.
Finger: Bring people in you truly f-ck with and admire. When you have coin, share it with the team.
Kucharska: I was lucky to be supported by the FCG/Vogue Fashion fund, which made things much easier. I was also relying a lot on the support of my network to make the magic happen.
Wade: Collaborate with friends who share your vision; it makes work feel like play and fosters creativity.
Lueder: Always work with a set designer.
Coker: The reality of it is that, as a young designer, you don’t have the budget. So, you are building with your genuine community.
What’s one thing you would change about fashion week?
Gordon: More hours in a day.
Ajobi: I would encourage larger platforms and businesses that host global fashion weeks to create more accessible opportunities that help emerging brands grow.
Finger: I don’t know! It’s a vicious game but I’m kinda here for it. Just respect one another and support the underdog.
Wade: I wish I had more time to attend my friends’ shows and support their work.
Lueder: I love how theatrical it is but I don’t know if it’s really the selling point for helping with the long-term sustainability of a brand. Runway shows look so grand and [it creates an expectation] that you have a lot of money somehow.
Coker: The true cost of putting on a runway show. Even things that seem quite mundane, all add up.
Kucharska: I would like to change the general circuit of the fashion week calendar. I’d prefer a slower pace and also more flexibility in the formats of showing and presenting collections.
As an emerging designer, how did you break into the fashion week circuit?
Gordon: There were so many moments when things felt impossible, I finally feel like I have a grasp on how and why I’m doing what I’m doing.
Ajobi: Six key things that have helped me along my journey so far are: Persistence, resilience, asking questions, working hard, understanding my ethos and constantly expanding my network most organically.
Finger: I just went for it. I shot my first runway show on the street with no permits guerilla style. Just keep going. Be relentless.
Wade: Partnering with Anthony Brooks Consulting was pivotal; they held the keys to previously closed doors.
Lueder: In 2019, I staged my own show and put posters up and around the official schedule of shows. We just booked a car and picked up people from the schedule to go to our own show, which was like one hour away. It was so funny but it went really well. 150 people came. It was crazy.
Coker: Through NEWGEN. Before that, I created bespoke pieces for artists on tour and custom, made-to-order pieces.
Kucharska: We’ve been thinking about it for a while. Our garments are made for a show so it was just about time. We’ve been doing showrooms in Paris for several seasons and a runway show felt like the right next step.
This interview has been condensed for clarity.
While you’re here, Rico Nasty announces LETHAL with a new single.
