Our Favorite Shows of Milan Fashion Week SS27 So Far
From Glenn Martens’ swan song at Diesel to Onitsuka Tiger’s revved up showcase.
With New York and London out of the way, it’s officially time to turn our attention to Milan. The Spring/Summer 2027 season kicked off on Tuesday 22nd September, with Prada marking the official opening. Not long after, we were treated to the bittersweet goodbye from Glenn Martens as he presented his final collection for Diesel.
On day two, the likes of Jil Sander, Fendi and MM6 Maison Margiela were some of our biggest highlights, before we spotted some killer footwear at Onitsuka Tiger. As day three draws to a close, we’ve seen names like MaxMara and Marni present their showcases, with standouts like Gucci, Moschino and Bottega Veneta still to come.
For SS27, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons revolved their Prada collection around one of fashion’s most transformative garments: the humble skirt. Reimagined through both its material and what it was worn with, the skirt was presented with crystal embroideries, decorative crinoline layers and organza outer shells. The variations showcased how this affects our perception of an outfit. Worn alongside thick sweaters, structured shirts and bra tops, SS27 showed the difference these pairings can make, and how we make these choices every time we put an outfit together.
Dhruv Kapoor
Dhruv Kapoor presented its SS27 collection titled “PRESENCE” this season, looking at the concept of being present and aware. Evolving the brand’s exploration of “transit” last season, SS27 switched between states and merged floating silhouettes with fitted ones, sun-faded colors with brightly saturated hues and structured tailoring with delicate draping. Taking inspiration from “the ease of Indian dressing,” the collection also reimagined traditional Indian lungi, vests and sari silhouettes into subtle techniques. Finally, the collection also debuted a new collaboration with PUMA, resulting in the PUMA X RCB capsule.
Diesel
Glenn Martens recently announced his departure from Diesel, and as a result, SS27 was his swan song: an ode to pleasure in the most exaggerated of ways. For his latest Milan Fashion Week show, the designer presented a collection that couldn’t be more Diesel if it tried. Despite countless incredible looks, the star of the show was, without a doubt, the unexpected performance that took place just before the finale. Enlisting the vigor of the Marseille-based artist collective (LA)HORDE, Martens tapped 200 performers to sit subtly in the audience before breaking out into sensual actions, touching themselves and each other, before engaging in some serious head-banging to close the show. A real… experience.
Fendi
FENDI’s smokeshow collection explored that relationship, beginning with a series of undergarments, designed with delicate lace, embroidery and pastel tones, and evolving into a series of costume-style looks inspired by Raffaella Carrà. The show’s set design also drew from a separate influence: an artwork called Cubo di specchi (Mirror Cube) by an Italian sculptor named Luciano Fabro. Forcing us “spectators into confrontation,” the result saw the audience facing a mirrored box in which the models walked.
MM6 Maison Margiela
Alongside debuting a probably-now-viral Havaianas collaboration, MM6’s SS27 showcase was a masterclass in opposite day. Models wore jackets as skirts, buttoned-up shirts as dresses and jumpers literally however the brand wanted them to. Offering a playful take on everyday dressing, the collection fused classic striped tops with asymmetric silhouettes, cozy knitwear with elements of deconstruction and short trench coats with toe-shaped flip-flops.
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