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Fashion

Our Favorite Shows of Milan Fashion Week SS27

From Glenn Martens’ swan song at Diesel to Moschino’s new creative director debut.

Our Favorite Shows of Milan Fashion Week SS27

From Glenn Martens’ swan song at Diesel to Moschino’s new creative director debut.

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 has officially wrapped, and the city spent the week doing what it does best, balancing the scale of its biggest luxury houses against a calendar increasingly filled with smaller, more intimate presentations. There was a lightness to the season that felt tied to the heat, with sheer layers and bright pops of color appearing across runways.

Glenn Martens said goodbye to Diesel after six years as its creative lead with a show turned into a full-body experience courtesy of (LA)HORDE and 200 performers hidden among the audience. Moschino, meanwhile, welcomed Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo of Sunnei for their debut, which brought 400 real-life commuters onto the runway to walk alongside the models. Demna‘s second physical outing at Gucci leaned hard into theater with a fully functioning brand store, weather effects included, and Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s sophomore Fendi collection had us staring into a mirrored box.

Elsewhere, Louise Trotter‘s third Bottega Veneta collection offered warm weather floral-motifs set to the stage of crushed cardboard seating, and The Attico marked its 10th anniversary by leaving its bags open for guests to peer inside. The footwear collaborations kept coming too, with Blumarine‘s crystal-caged UGG clogs and MM6 Maison Margiela‘s Havaianas flip-flops.

Continue reading for our favorite MFW SS27 showcases, and before you go, check out our London Fashion Week SS27 highlights.

Prada

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, For SS27, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons revolved their Prada collection around one of fashion’s most transformative garments: the humble skirt. Reimagined through both its material and what it was worn with, the skirt was presented with crystal embroideries, decorative crinoline layers and organza outer shells. The variations showcased how this affects our perception of an outfit. Worn alongside thick sweaters, structured shirts and bra tops, SS27 showed the difference these pairings can make, and how we make these choices every time we put an outfit together.

Dhruv Kapoor

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Dhruv Kapoor presented its SS27 collection titled “PRESENCE” this season, looking at the concept of being present and aware. Evolving the brand’s exploration of “transit” last season, SS27 switched between states and merged floating silhouettes with fitted ones, sun-faded colors with brightly saturated hues and structured tailoring with delicate draping. Taking inspiration from “the ease of Indian dressing,” the collection also reimagined traditional Indian lungi, vests and sari silhouettes into subtle techniques. Finally, the collection also debuted a new collaboration with PUMA, resulting in the PUMA X RCB capsule.

Diesel

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Glenn Martens recently announced his departure from Diesel, and as a result, SS27 was his swan song: an ode to pleasure in the most exaggerated of ways. For his latest Milan Fashion Week show, the designer presented a collection that couldn’t be more Diesel if it tried. Despite countless incredible looks, the star of the show was, without a doubt, the unexpected performance that took place just before the finale. Enlisting the vigor of the Marseille-based artist collective (LA)HORDE, Martens tapped 200 performers to sit subtly in the audience before breaking out into sensual actions, touching themselves and each other, before engaging in some serious head-banging to close the show. A real… experience.

Fendi

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, FENDI’s smokeshow collection explored that relationship, beginning with a series of undergarments, designed with delicate lace, embroidery and pastel tones, and evolving into a series of costume-style looks inspired by Raffaella Carrà. The show’s set design also drew from a separate influence: an artwork called Cubo di specchi (Mirror Cube) by an Italian sculptor named Luciano Fabro. Forcing us “spectators into confrontation,” the result saw the audience facing a mirrored box in which the models walked.

MM6 Maison Margiela

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Alongside debuting a probably-now-viral Havaianas collaboration, MM6’s SS27 showcase was a masterclass in opposite day. Models wore jackets as skirts, buttoned-up shirts as dresses and jumpers literally however the brand wanted them to. Offering a playful take on everyday dressing, the collection fused classic striped tops with asymmetric silhouettes, cozy knitwear with elements of deconstruction and short trench coats with toe-shaped flip-flops.

Sportmax

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Sportmax delivered an ultra-lightweight wardrobe for its SS27 collection, responding directly to intense global heatwaves with functional sheerness. Looking to everyday street style across major global cities, the brand refines classic utilitarian uniforms into semi-translucent, weightless iterations. Tailoring receives a warm-weather update via trompe-l’oeil suit lapels stitched entirely flat across the chest, removing bulk while preserving formal lines. The footwear was a real standout, featuring sandals with thick transparent straps and a furry sole.

Gucci

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Demna brought pure theatricality back to Gucci’s runway for his SS27 presentation. Setting the stage as an active brand store complete with shifting weather patterns and bossa nova soundtracks, the creative director delivered a sharp shift toward expressive Italian glamour in a collection called “The Shop.” Womenswear centers around squarer silhouettes with exaggerated shoulder construction, raised layered collars and heavy-duty corset belts. Statement outerwear takes shape in massive furs, while signature brand motifs appear across oversized metal horsebit accents. The real showstoppers were the women’s bomber jackets styled with striped polos, flannels and long pearl necklaces.

Moschino

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Moschino unveiled its SS27 collection marking the debut showcase from new creative directors Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo. For their first presentation, the duo behind Sunnei brought 400 real-life commuters into the venue to walk alongside traditional models, establishing a fresh focus on daily dressing. One of our favorite looks was a crisp white “GOOD LUCK” T-shirt tucked into lean green trousers. Derived from direct archive studies, the collection avoids decorative excess, sticking to functional proportions and clean-cut paneling across every look.

The Attico

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models,

The Attico’s SS27 collection, titled “Quando Nessuno Guarda,” explored the secret spaces of personal style through bedroom-inspired sets. Founders Giorgia and Gilda unveiled their 10th anniversary presentation focused on how women dress when shielded from public observation. Bags were left open so that show guests could peer inside, including the introduction of the L’altra di Milano, a structured day bag featuring three distinct zipped sections with contrasting internal linings and the established La Passeggiata bag also reappearing in updated material finishes. For more about The Attico’s 10th anniversary collection, read our exclusive interview with the founders.

Bottega Veneta

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Louise Trotter’s third collection for Bottega Veneta was a fever dream of florals, leather and raffia. The SS27 showcase shifted focus toward unrestrictive, weightless garments tailored for warmer months. Set against a stark white backdrop, the runway environment incorporated custom installations by artist Illya Goldman Gubin. Hand-reshaped crushed cardboard seating replicated the layout of the house’s signature Intreccio leather weave, a tactile detail mirrored in creased paper poster invitations prepared by staff and the artist. The show was attended by Jacob Elordi, Julianne Moore, Jorja Smith, Tyler, The Creator and walked by Kendall Jenner.

Blumarine

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models,

Blumarine returned to MFW while unveiling a new UGG collaboration. Reworking the footwear brand’s Enwrap Clog silhouette, the Italian house crafted crystal-encrusted metal cages wrapping the upper alongside accenting ostrich feather trim. As for the garments, creative director David Koma brought the house’s romantic foundations onto the coastline, juxtaposing 1970s bohemian accents against Y2K pop references. Swimsuit-inspired cut-outs break up jersey bodysuits, paired alongside varsity tops stamped with “Blumarine Since Forever” graphics. Our favorite looks from the collection include the pastel baseball shirts paired with exaggerated tulle skirts.

Loro Piana

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, Loro Piana showcased its latest collection inside Milan’s Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, framing high-end garments through functional problem-solving. Moving away from standard categorizations, the presentation matched specific silhouettes with daily functional demands. Traditional tailoring elements return via structured camel blazers, pleated skirts, lightweight summer tailleurs, scarves and silk ties.

JARELZHANG

milan fashion week, runway, diesel, prada, models, JARELZHANG‘s SS27 collection, title “STAYWAY,” examined the tension between physical movement and preserved memory. The presentation was staged in a black-box theater with a projection of shifting realities. “STAY” represents stillness and memory retention, while “WAY” focuses on direction and transformation. Rather than treating technology and emotion as contrasting elements, the design philosophy merges physical forms with artificial, simulated imagery.