Luar's FW25 Show Was All About "Miss Mama" Hair and Underground Club Drag Makeup
An ode to the queer community that raised the designer himself.
For Raul Lopez, founder of Luar, honoring his roots is always a central part of his creative process. The name “El Pato,” which translates to “the duck” in Spanish, carries a dual meaning. In some Latin American cultures, it’s also used as a homophobic slur. An advocate for reclaiming language, Lopez felt compelled to take ownership of the term and transform it into something powerful and empowering for his Fall/Winter 2025 New York Fashion Week show. On the runway, feathered accessories, knitted jumpsuits and ’80s-inspired suiting became key elements in his collections, blending his love for the decade with his self-expression. As always, the beauty backstage is deeply connected to the garments.
When it comes to makeup, MAC Cosmetics’ key artist Terry Barberon isn’t afraid to go heavy. For him, the beauty on the catwalk is all about embracing maximalism — soft makeup sort of bores him. Drawing inspiration from the late ’80s and the “underground club drag” scene, the look at Luar wasn’t meant to be pristine — rather, it mirrored an undone quality, “like it was done in the back of a taxi cab,” Barberon told Hypebae. Both Barberon and Lopez share a deep connection to the queer communities that shaped them and offered them a sense of belonging and understanding, along with the universal experience of being immigrants.
As a long-time collaborator with MAC, Barberon chose a nostalgic pale white shade from the brand’s early days, evoking memories of when he first began working with them. Paired with black eyeshadow for a dramatic winged effect, the colors subtly referenced the eyes of a duck, tying the makeup directly to the collection’s theme.
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Naomi Yasuda, who collaborated with OPI, took her nail artistry to the imaginary pond. With a deep friendship with Lopez (the two were once roommates), Yasuda’s approach is always to transform the nails into an extension of the collection. For this show, she applied delicate faux feathers to press-on nails, taking the duck theme to a new level. For the base, she used two coats each of OPI’s “Black Onyx,” “Alpine Snow” and “Livin’ la Vida Mocha” nail polishes. Then, Yasuda applied crystals in varying sizes and secured feathers using the OPI “GelColor Super Glass” No-Wipe Top Coat.
On hair, Jawara partnered with Tresemmé on a style he called “Miss Mama.” a reimagining of a fanned-out and spiked look that felt familiar to the artist. “For Luar’s show, I was inspired by the women of the ’80s, using volume to showcase confidence,” Jawara said in a press statement. “The sleek bun emulates professionalism, while the fanned sides add a fiery flare. This hairstyle aims to add spice to the ordinary, mixing modern sleek with heavy volume.”
For more fashion week coverage, check out our round-up of our favorite beauty moments.
