Kim Shui Brought Subversive, Sexy Cowgirls to NYFW
Blending her Chinese heritage with Western-inspired silhouettes.
For Kim Shui‘s Fall/Winter 2025 showcase at New York Fashion Week, the designer explored the relationship between sensuality and restraint. Tapping into her Chinese heritage, Shui blended traditional craftsmanship with Western-inspired silhouettes, also drawing inspiration from artist Monica Bonvicini and her use of leather.
Looking at themes of agency, control and resistance, the designer utilized leather as her “medium of transformation,” exploring manipulations like fringing, splicing and shredding in a bid to represent the challenging of gender norms. Using the body as a canvas, the collection features standout silhouettes like “the butt bag” alongside bra-inspired bags and K bolo tie necklaces.
Challenging societal constructs of identity and looking at the role of the body in cultural narratives, this collection acted as “an invitation to rethink the symbols that define us,” exploring the concept of culture through a whole new lens.
Read on for Hypebae’s review of Kim Shui FW25. In case you missed it, here’s what went down at Sandy Liang FW25.
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WHERE: The showcase took place at 50 Hudson Yards, with this season’s set design seemingly inspired by grand ballrooms.
WHO: Joey Bada$$ and his girlfriend Serayah were in attendance at Kim Shui’s FW25 showcase, alongside Orange Is the New Black star Dascha Polanco and Love Island‘s Leah.
SEE: Through hues of burgundy, black, white, brown and green, Shui’s FW25 fused exaggerated silhouettes with snake and cheetah prints, blending Western-inspired designs with hints of traditional Chinese detailing. Faux fur cowboy hats and coats were elevated by Chinese embroidery, Qi pao collars and Chinese frog buttons, complete with snake motifs to represent renewal.
TOUCH: Delicate lace garments were contrasted by fur-lined trimming, landing on coats, and belts. Projecting a “modern-day sexy cowgirl” aesthetic, this season’s collection revolved around laser-cut pleather, displaying textures of unraveling, fringing, draping and shredding. Sliced textures were incorporated to add a sense of dominance and toughness, juxtaposed by soft furs and trims.
HEAR: The sexy and subversive collection was accompanied by a Bali-like intro into more conventional, poppy sounds, aiming to replicate FW25’s contrasting inspirations.
TASTE: Western-inspired design is clearly going nowhere fast, but for FW25, appears elevated by more personal and traditional detailing.
